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 ADVANCED
The Cliffs of Insanity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butter Cup T,S 
Iocane Powder TR 
Princess Tried, The S 
R.O.U.S. S 
Six Fingered Man S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Princess Tried 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gillett & Donahue, 2002
Page Views: 237
Submitted By: John Marsella on Oct 1, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate bolt locations of Princess Tried, R.O....

Description 

P1. Start on a dirty stance (with a much-needed anchor bolt), and climb up the arete left of the slab. There is an awkward crux down low, then the difficulty tapers off slightly; move right of the arete, and move into a secondary crux before reaching anchor chains at 100 feet.

P2. Belay from a very comfortable ledge. Start right of the anchors and use the pocket to clip a high first bolt, sidepull, and cross over the arete into a dirty channel. Move straight up into a gap and to the anchors, about 50 feet.

Location 

Approach as for R.O.U.S.; continue east and squeeze by a pine tree, being careful of the *very* loose rock. Traverse the dirty ledge, maybe 20 feet, to the belay station.

A double rope rap to the base of the climb is possible with two 60m ropes. One 70m rope comes up just short, but the downclimb seems possible, albeit slightly tenuous. Alternately, do two raps to the first set of anchors then to the ground.

Protection 

P1. 11 draws to two chain-anchors. There is a belay anchor at base of the climb down low.

P2. 4 (or 5?) draws to a double-bolt anchor with chains. Sling the 4th bolt for less drag.


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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Apr 22, 2012

Hidden hold far right @ crux.