The Prince  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  1989 Purcell, Mellor Submitted By:  Kevin Heckeler on Jul 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Valerie Bachinsky approaching the first belay, P1 ...

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Description 

P1 5.5G (50') - Up to ledge (or traverse from left on ledge), then up to a left facing corner. Climb the corner then traverse right to a bolted belay.

P2 5.7G (60') - Climb straight up, through overlap (crux), up to small roof (for gear), then step back down to make a couple moves left (more gear), then up and right on a ledge with a good belay at a left facing open book.

P3 5.7G (90') - (V1) Climb left side of flake, follow fingercrack up and left, along a ramp, up a shallow corner (sometimes wet) to a jutting rock. Behind this (crux), up and left through the roof. Travese left to belay/rap.

You will not reach the ground with a single rope rappel. Expect to use the rappel station about 50 feet below and right of the top rap station.

V1 5.9+R - Straight up black face (bolt). Use the handcrack in the roof to right leaning crack that cuts back left to a ledge and belay (80 feet). Up 5.7 slab (100 feet) to the top. The walkoff right is poor, so this doesn't get climbed much.

Location 

Center of cliff (far left of where the trail meets the wall), right of the bolted 5.12a line of Working Wives that shares the same start.

Protection 

Standard Rack

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Looking up Pitch 1 of The Prince 5.7 (King Wall),