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 ADVANCED
Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
left of 5.10 flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Price of Evil 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mason Earle 11/10
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,577
Submitted By: m-earle on Nov 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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An early attempt, mid crux.
Photo- Brad Gobright

Description 

The Price of Evil is a second pitch flared 15 foot roof, to a desperate flared lip encounter, to a flared 45 degree, overhanging, desperate, blue collar grovel. Quite a bit harder than Bellyfull. First pitch is fun 5.9

Location 

This route is actually on the crag before (as your driving into the Creek) Blue Gramma. It is the climbers right of the two flaring bulges.

Protection 

In NEW Camalots...

P1
1# .5
2# .75
1# 2

P2
1 #4
3 #5
1 QD


Photos of The Price of Evil Slideshow Add Photo
PK exiting the invert
PK exiting the invert
Just before falling for the millionth or so time!
Just before falling for the millionth or so time!
Pat kicking into the invert! Pinkpoint attempt in May 2010...
Pat kicking into the invert! Pinkpoint attempt in ...
Classic Indian Creek splitter
BETA PHOTO: Classic Indian Creek splitter
Pat Kingsbury under what would become "Price of Evil" with Peter Ramos leading P1.
Pat Kingsbury under what would become "Price of Ev...

Comments on The Price of Evil Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Nov 17, 2010

we should add this buttress separately, i don't know what it would be called but there are a handful of routes up there. nice job on the route. there is also a steep wide crack up high at blue gramma if i remember correctly. i thought this might be that one, but looks like you ran into another fatty!
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 17, 2010

I didn't add this buttress because there are so many petroglyphs at the base. Many of the climbs here (not including this one thankfully) have petroglyphs near, or on their bases. It probably doesn't matter, but there really aren't many worthwhile- everyday routes here anyways. Just my thoughts.
By slim
Administrator
Nov 18, 2010

sounds good to me. i hadn't thought about that. on a side note, did you avenge that thing seven fold?
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 6, 2011

thear are people who take grate ofence to puting up routs in that section of the creek!! let alone leave gear hanging for days on end out of the crack like rifel.. i took my frends on a hike too see sum petroglyphs and saw shit show of gear hangin out of the rounded ass formation. i scofed at it dissmised it. but 4 days had gon by wen Running feather and his wife who sell dream catchers and sav for your sor hands at news paper rock asked me devin fin too take down that ''stuff'' not my place to choop a route so i sed no. but my mother is a full blooded native american an i could understand ware they were coming from and in such a fragle seting lets stay away from putten up new routs right off the road. pleas no disrespect but lets think about not onley are inpact on the rock. but too the people who have called this place home for life. NOTHING BUT RESPECT Devin Fin
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jan 6, 2011

Devin,

If you ever feel a need for a quick edit, you are welcome to PM me with anything for a "pre-post" revision. Not that I'm insinuating anything:)
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Jan 10, 2011

Devin,

I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish with your interesting writing style, but it certainly made for a cruxy read! That aside, in the course of trying this route I didn't once leave gear in overnight.

Also, I appreciate your concern about sensitive areas. I put a lot of thought into wether or not to try this route, and ultimately decided that it was perfectly acceptable. First of all, the closest petroglyph to the base of this climb is about 40 feet away. On top of that, the route begins in a squeeze chimney, so you never even touch the outside wall at the base of the cliff. Finally, the offwidth is the second pitch, so 90% of the time you're on this route is spent in an alcove 80 feet off the ground- hardly any time is spent hanging around at the base. I would agree though, that most other routes at this crag should not be climbed due to close proximity to petroglyphs. That is why I didn't add this area.

As you said you did yourself, many people hike up to this crag to look at the petroglyphs- why shouldn't I be able to hike up to this wall and keep on going? Isn't Blue Gramma just as close to the road? I hope this answers your concerns.

m
By Justin Edl
Apr 18, 2011

Sick work Mason! I had to hear an earful from Bob Scarpelli last year because someone had left all that gear in this thing. He was incensed. Not only was it a significant visual blight, but he also objected to someone working the line in such poor style. He had put in some real effort on this line years ago and was going to be PISSED if someone climbed it in such poor style and compared their successes to his own failure on the route. He would be glad to know that it was done in good style.

I also remember him pointing it out to me one day and he had a glint in his eye as he talked proudly about how he had worked that line and how it had bouted him. He felt that it was one of the really nice, obvious, hard offwidth projects around. Seriously, proud work Mason! I hope to get the opportunity to try and repeat this one some day.

Devin, looks like you need to do some fact checking before you jump down Mason's throat: www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1175877/Gear-Stolen-in-Indi>>>
By punkencack
Jul 12, 2011

Probably feels a lot better than having a bunch of gear stolen . . . .