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 ADVANCED
The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko 
Finland 
Hard Drive 
Horned Behavior 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It 
Machine Head 
Measured Doses 
Midget Tricks 
Nice Land 
Practice, The 
Premium, The 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  
Short and sharp 
Soft Job 
Soft Machine 
Stoned Temple Pilot 
Swedish Girls 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) 
Wiggler Wants It 

The Premium 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Armstron
Page Views: 652
Submitted By: Emile Mennin on Sep 14, 2009
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Description 

Stick clip and get ready to stem and layback in the awkward dihedral, thin holds yield their way to sandy buckets, and thats only the first pitch. If you only do the first pitch, 5.12c is a solid grade, if you go for it all, it gets the 5.12c/d, more on the d side.


Location 

On the left side of Prudential find the obvious big dihedral that basically goes to the top of the cliff but is broken by a ledge. Third set of bolts left of Machine Head.


Protection 

10 bolts



Comments on The Premium Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 25, 2010

Way steeper and harder than it first appears. Prepare for powerful, technical, pumpy climbing, while doing splits.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 31, 2013

finally tried it today! Mark put it very well... Steep and hard pretty much all the way! Super fun! felt full on 5.12d to me, i found the lower and upper corners to be equally difficult but in different ways... get on it!