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 ADVANCED
The Prudential
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Funko S 
Finland S 
Hard Drive S 
Horned Behavior S 
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 
Machine Head S 
Measured Doses S 
Midget Tricks S 
Nice Land S 
Practice, The S 
Premium, The S 
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished)  T 
Short and sharp S 
Soft Job S 
Soft Machine S 
Stoned Temple Pilot S 
Swedish Girls S 
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 

The Premium 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Armstron
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: Emile Mennin on Sep 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Stick clip and get ready to stem and layback in the awkward dihedral, thin holds yield their way to sandy buckets, and thats only the first pitch. If you only do the first pitch, 5.12c is a solid grade, if you go for it all, it gets the 5.12c/d, more on the d side.

Location 

On the left side of Prudential find the obvious big dihedral that basically goes to the top of the cliff but is broken by a ledge. Third set of bolts left of Machine Head.

Protection 

10 bolts


Comments on The Premium Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 25, 2010

Way steeper and harder than it first appears. Prepare for powerful, technical, pumpy climbing, while doing splits.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 31, 2013

finally tried it today! Mark put it very well... Steep and hard pretty much all the way! Super fun! felt full on 5.12d to me, i found the lower and upper corners to be equally difficult but in different ways... get on it!