The Precipice  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  51,074. Good page? (6 likes)    Administrators:  Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Brett Butera on Mar 10, 2007 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat 72° | 52° 75° | 54° 73° | 54° 73° | 54° 72° | 55°

BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Precipice

Description 

The Precipice is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs “Old Town” (5.7) and “Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: “The Story of O” (5.6), “Green Mountain Breakdown” (5.9+), and “Chitlins Corner” (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, “Acadia: a climber’s guide” by Jeff Butterfield and can be picked up at Cadillac Mountain Sports in Bar Harbor.

The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although most climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Due to Peregrine Falcon nesting, the right side of the Precipice is closed seasonally.

The island has many campgrounds, although the island is more of a bed-and-breakfast type of place. Definitely try some of the local brews on the island. The Bar Harbor Real Ale is exceptionally good and is made by the Atlantic Brewing Company on the island. Also, if you need an inexpensive, fatty burrito after climbing, go to Gringo’s in Bar Harbor.

Getting There 

Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.

The Classics

Featured Route For The Precipice

Chlitlin Corner 5.7  ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

A very long corner. This pitch is super classic even thought it has some preamble to it that isn't very fun. Start up the blocky finish, gain the rambling wavy corner and enjoy it to the top. Sometimes the last move to the anchor can be pretty wet.The first time I was on this climb I was just learning how to trad climb and I placed well over 18 pieces of gear, the next time I was on it I placed 8.It has a 10c second pitch that I haven't climbed, so I'm not describing it....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of The Precipice Slideshow

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The Precipice from Schooner Head Road	view from a belay ledge on The Precipice	Old Town
BETA PHOTO: A. Boys from Bangor B. Chitlin's Corner & Green M...	A view of the ocean (and the approaching ferry fro...	Early morning start in the parking lot of the Prec...
The view.	Leading Chicken of the Sea, Precipice Wall, Acadia...	Sunrise from Story of O
the view	Bomber.