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The Precipice is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs “Old Town” (5.7) and “Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: “The Story of O” (5.6), “Green Mountain Breakdown” (5.9+), and “Chitlins Corner” (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, “Acadia: a climber’s guide” by Jeff Butterfield and can be picked up at Cadillac Mountain Sports in Bar Harbor.
Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.
43 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Precipice
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Precipice:
Wafer Step 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Story of O 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Gunklandia 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Old Town 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Chlitlin Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Bartleby 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Recollections of Pacifica 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 50'
Chicken of the Sea 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Gunklandia Direct Variation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Sea Gypsy 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Green Mt. Breakdown 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 125'
Return to Forever 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 95'
Emigrant Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 85'
Fear of Flying 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Sweet Surrender 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch
Connecticut Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 70'
Jaws 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 190'
Juvenile 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Maniacal Depression 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Pipe Dreams 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For The Precipice
Old Town 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice
Starts at a fun corner that requires an interesting high foot that will make you get into a fantastic layback that you'll stay in for the rest of this climb. make some fun moves until you mantle the ledge at the half-way point then protect high off the ledge and continue up the upper layback (crux) to the easy topout.Matthew Fienup:Truly classic laybacking and stemming at an accessible grade. Every bit as good as it looks....[more] Browse More Classics in ME