Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 382 ft
GPS: 44.34691, -68.19013
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 224,177 total · 1,082/month
Shared By: Brett Butera on Mar 10, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Precipice aka South Wall is located in Acadia National Park on the east side of Mount Desert Island in Maine. The glaciated pink granite is high-quality, solid rock for climbing and provides some excellent dihedrals, such as the classic climbs Old Town (5.7) and Return to Forever” (5.9). Other not-to-miss climbs include: The Story of O (5.6), Green Mountain Breakdown (5.9+), and Chitlins Corner (5.10a). From the top of the climbs, one has a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean. A guidebook is available for the island, Rock Climbs of Acadia by Grant Simmons and is available at Alpenglow Adventure Sports on Main Street in Bar Harbor. The crag is over two hundred feet tall at its highest point, resulting in 2-3 pitch climbs. The climbs are traditional and require a standard rack of mixed stoppers and mostly small-to-medium size cams. Fixed rappels are located at the top of many climbs. A 60-meter rope is best, although many of the single pitch climbs can be done with a 50-meter rope. Peregrine closures only affect a few routes right of Wafer Step which are generally not done anyway. Current closures and conditions on the NPS site: http://www.nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/trailclosures.htm 

Getting There Suggest change

Directions to the Precipice: From Bangor, Maine, take Rt. 1A to Ellsworth and then Rt. 3 to Mount Desert Island. Once on the island, head towards Town Hill on Rt. 198. Continue on Rt. 198 until you reach a junction with Rt. 233, at which you’ll need to take a left. From Rt. 233 take a left to enter Acadia National Park. Take the park loop road past the Precipice Trailhead parking. The trailhead to the crag is approximately 100 meters past the trailhead parking. You can park on the right side of the two-lane one-way road. You’ll know you are on the right approach trail when you see the climber sign-in box. Continue on the trail until you reach a small cliff, where you need to head left across the talus field to the base of the crag.

Parking is extremely limited here, especially in summer. Consider parking outside the park and biking or taking the shuttle.

83 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Precipice aka The South Wall Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Precipice aka The South Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 208
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 291
Story of O
Trad 3 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 302
Old Town
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 131
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 90
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 169
Recollections of Pacifica -(Cent…
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 65
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 74
Green Mt. Breakdown
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
Chitlin's Corner
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 80
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Fear of Flying
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
The Wet Lithuanian
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 140
Connecticut Cracks
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 14
Maniacal Depression
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Pipe Dreams
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)
 208
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Story of O
 291
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Old Town
 302
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Bartleby -(Central Slab)
 131
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Return to Forever - (mid-c…
 90
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Recollections of Pacifica -…
 169
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff ST…
 65
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Green Mt. Breakdown
 74
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Chitlin's Corner
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Emigrant Crack - (mid-clif…
 80
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Fear of Flying
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Wet Lithuanian
 13
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Connecticut Cracks
 140
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Maniacal Depression
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Pipe Dreams
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Precipice aka The South Wall »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading