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 ADVANCED
Mill Creek Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cross Cut T 
Features on a Landscape S 
Fractals S 
Fractals Variation S 
How Can A Monkey Jump Over The Ocean ? T,S 
MargaSukha T 
MargaUgra, (5.12/A0) S 
Power Shot S 
Power Stripper, The T,S 
Ram T,S 
Sadhaka Yogi, aka The Seeker S 
Sita T,S 
Yogi's Choice T,S 

The Power Stripper 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: RMWright, Fall 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Typical of Dumont
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: TPS.

Description 

TPS begins in the cave just adjacent to Power Shot and angles right up a deceptive slab before turning a corner and firing straight to the anchor. Don't be fooled. The slab is much trickier than it looks. Turning the corner is one crux, and the route remains continuously devious and powerful right up to the last bolt. The corner above can be protected by Friends or Camalots and takes bomb-proof gear. The rock quality is excellent from start to finish. I think that TPS comes in at 5.12, but it has taken me a lot of tries to suss out solutions to each crux. Maybe I'm just getting old. This is an excellent climb worth four stars rather than three.

Location 

This is between Power Shot and Sadhaka Yogi.

Protection 

One dozen draws and several camming devices spanning a range of 0.5 to 2.5 inches. I used four cams in final corner, but you can get by with fewer. Double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 22, 2012

Beta note: the entry move and the slab are tricky. We found that standing straight up and a bit left of the first clip and then hand traversing right seemed to work okay. The bolts on the slab are placed a bit below and right of the climbing, which is unnerving at first. This allows the rope to run clean around the corner at clip five. After that, it's a pretty straight shot to the anchor.