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White Wall
Routes Sorted
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Choptop S 
Double Standard S 
Expiration S 
Hunger, The S 
One Night Stand S 
Power of One, The S 
Stain, The S 
Stand, The S 
State of Grace S 

The Power of One 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start off the ledge just to the right of State of Grace and climb past bouldery moves to the seam above and a committing deadpoint at the very end.

Location 

Middle of the face, between the two aretes.

Protection 

10 bolts & 3 open shuts.


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By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Aug 17, 2010

I met a guy last season who claimed that this route is mostly chipped. I was hoping to one day do this thing, but if its mostly manufactured that deters me a bit. I do realize this is echo we're talking about, the most lovable choss pile on the planet, and it is far from bullet stone, but I still prefer more natural routes.
So, does anybody know the extent of chippage on this route?
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 18, 2010

Its definitely chipped. If "mostly" means more than half, then I would say its not "mostly" chippped. But there are more than a few chipped holds if my memory serves. I thought it climbed really nice, but like many chipped routes, it appears to have been fit to the FAs dimensions, which is kinda lame IMO. Still worth trying if you're in the area. Check the bolts first.
By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Aug 19, 2010

Thanks for the beta, Mono. You're right, it does sound kinda lame, but if the movement is good I suppose it could be worth the effort.
The bolts are suspect though, huh? Lovely.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 20, 2010

If the bolts are bad, do the community service thing and replace them before starting to work the thing. Yeah it might suck but if it needs to be done, it needs to be done. You could try to get the FA to do it or at least come up with the bolts but that seems unlikely.

Mono, isn't it usually the case that a chipped route is built to suit? Not that I would do it but if you are going to spend the time beating the rock down wouldn't you make moves that were fun for you? which usually means moves that you are good at as well. On another note, why chip a pocket bigger than you need to get your fingers into? This is pretty common from what I've seen, if the FA had small fingers and the route has pockets or slots and you have fat fingers you may be screwed.