|Saddle Rocks - Skirt (West Face)
Start as per Six Shooter (5.11a), clipping the first three bolts, then head up and left to a cool overhanging open book. Nice jams lead to a burly undercling, layback, stem thing. Clip one more bolt, then get the jugs to pull the roof. Head up and right to the "Six Shooter" anchor, or finish up "Santa Cruz" (watch for drag). Don't let "The Posse" get ya.
4 bolts, small to medium cams. I used a #1 Camalot and a #.5 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor rap.
Head up so you are even with, or a little higher than, the chains on Episcopalian Toothpick. Hard right, skirt up and right passing the first pitch crack of Cowboys till you can climb, squeeze, next to a boulder to a nice platform. You will see the bolts on the slab, and the overhanging open book up and left of "Six Shooter". There is a bolt on the left wall of the book.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Apr 26, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
This thing felt way harder than 10a/b to me. Maybe the hold that broke off in my hand and sent me flying backwards was part of it. Easy climbing, to a wickedly hard move, to 9+ slab on Santa Cruz.