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The Poseidon Adventure
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 5
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Routes in Neptune's Lair
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Booby Eggs for Breakfast S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Calypso S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Mermaid S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poseidon Adventure, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Lizz Grenard |
| Page Views: | 784 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | WAGbag on Jan 30, 2012 |
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Access Issue: Bird closures
Details
For route closures in Cayman Brac due to bird nests, see info here: climb.ky/2021/04/20/birds-a…
Description
If the wall is slimy, just take a few moments to dry off the holds of this route because its a total gem, and is the best 5.12 on the island. According to Louie from Team Voodoo (at log book at the Bluff House) it's the best route he did over the 8 days there.
Climb up the black eroded stone to where the wall starts to kick back and you gain the large cave but don't bother with kneebars here. You can go slightly right with big moves to gain the black horizontal band, or slightly left. This black rock (we're talkin used 10W30 black here) is really a sight to see in itself, and a very unique feature of limestone among otherwise very white rock. From here it would be obvious to go slightly left of the bolt line but you encounter crumbly rock and a big throw. More correctly, take a quick right turn to round the corner just right of the bolt line to maintain bullet hard rock and a series of huecos to gain a pod for a no-hands kneebar that is so good and so comfortable there is no need for a kneepad. Finish on easier moves to the anchor. In the series of huecos there was a plant and a lot of mud in one of the holds. I spent several minutes cleaning that up since the slime could ruin a perfectly good redpoint in that pumpy section.
Climb up the black eroded stone to where the wall starts to kick back and you gain the large cave but don't bother with kneebars here. You can go slightly right with big moves to gain the black horizontal band, or slightly left. This black rock (we're talkin used 10W30 black here) is really a sight to see in itself, and a very unique feature of limestone among otherwise very white rock. From here it would be obvious to go slightly left of the bolt line but you encounter crumbly rock and a big throw. More correctly, take a quick right turn to round the corner just right of the bolt line to maintain bullet hard rock and a series of huecos to gain a pod for a no-hands kneebar that is so good and so comfortable there is no need for a kneepad. Finish on easier moves to the anchor. In the series of huecos there was a plant and a lot of mud in one of the holds. I spent several minutes cleaning that up since the slime could ruin a perfectly good redpoint in that pumpy section.
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