The Poseidon Adventure
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Murf on the crux traverse.
This route and Towering Inferno begin in a small right facing crack/corner on the right side of the north face. Climb this to a horizontal. Now, make a long traverse left, past the steep thin crack of Towering Inferno. Interesting moves past a bolt lead to the base of the left-hand upper crack system. Follow this steep crack to the summit.
The initial section the climb is pretty gritty (as is the last 10 feet). But, if this (and Towering Inferno) saw more traffic, it could clean up into a 3+ star route.
The face is steeper than you might think; overall it overhangs a couple feet.
Rappel (85+ feet) from a bolt anchor located near the top of Towering Inferno.
On the north side of Disaster Dome. Begin on the right.
The north-northeast aspect of this route means it nearly always in the shade. This is a good candidate for warmer weather.
Bring a good variety of gear: From medium nuts to several larger (3-4 inches) cams. Several long runners are needed to reduce rope drag.
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The initial crack has less than stellar rock and is awkward, but the rest of the route make up for it IMO. The exit moves are the "typical Josh top-out".