By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Nov 15, 2006
Maybe the biggest sandbag at the lake???
By Doug Hemken Administrator Jul 5, 2007 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
Better than it looks.
Looking at it from the base, you figure the traverse will be the crux. The traverse is height and wingspan dependent. Finding the right crimps could be tough. Once you have the hand jams, you think its over ... think again!
how can this climb get a 5.8 rating??!!!! this is the hardest 8 in the world!! on my first attempt and failure......i was told it was a 10, that traverse isn't easy people.
By Tradoholic Aug 25, 2009 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Oh god. I hated this climb. I tried for an OS and was totally punched in the balls by this sandbag. The traverse to the vert crack is totally height dependent, I was fine but anyone shorter than 6ft is screwed. Then, locking off hard with no feet, I went for a jam, which was solid but hurt like hell on which I fell. I TR'd it by laybacking the vert crack but that would have required placing the gear blind. AND THEN, I sliced up my knees in the chimney above. Oh, did I mention that the whole thing was slimy today. I thought it looked cool, but it climbs poorly. Fuck this pile of poop.
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI Aug 26, 2009
Rhoads, try the Direct, hard 12 and way more fun.
By Tradoholic Apr 30, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Ok, lead it today and found the good hold in the back of the crack, not as bad as I originally thought.
What the direct Trav? Straight up the face to the crack?
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI Apr 30, 2010
From the big triangle hole continue straight up and a little left (dont traverse right). From what I remember there is a little rest at the horizontal break half way up, then a second crux right at the end. I remember thinking this had such a definitive end. You go from small crimps to a huge jug and then topout, almost like bouldering at the dodge.
Lead this yesterday. No route has made me bleed more than this one. First I split the back of a couple fingers trying to jam my fingertips into the horizontal seam for the traverse, then the crux hand jam took a good chunk out of the back of my hand. Anyway, I thought this was a good well-protected lead after I made sure the traverse had adequate pro for my tastes on TR.
By Tradoholic Oct 7, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
If you use the right arete and bump your left hand up the crack this becomes incredibly easy except for a balancy traverse left at the end of the crack.
I really enjoyed this climb! After leading this a few separate times with a fall at the crux I became determined to send clean. Placing a cam where I wasn't trying to jam my hand and the discovery a decent left foot hold (around a foot above the horizontal) helped me get it done.