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The Politics of Dancing
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 39
votes
Routes in 82 Main Wall
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Arms Reduction T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Block Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crimp Chimp T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Crème de la Choss S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Duo, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kid Charlemagne S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Politics of Dancing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quills S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Truffle Hog T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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War on Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Year of the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Alden Pellet (equipper) FFA--Ivan Tighe |
| Page Views: | 5,749 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore |
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Access Issue: Trail leads between parcels of private land.
Details
Follow the yellow bottle caps and pink flagging to ensure you remain on Crag-VT or Green Crow Logging property and not on private land.
Description
Said by those who have climbed it to be the "Prince of Darkness" of the East. This route epitomizes sustained face climbing with killer exposure to boot.
Politics has a common start with "Crimp Chimp", then breaks hard left at the overlap/ledge until you are in front of the small birch tree. Take a deep breath, and make a quasi-committing move up to the first bolt. A fall from before clipping the first bolt would be less than ideal, so if one chooses, a yellow Alien can be placed from a comfortable, standing position in a small crack/pod to help tame the pucker effect before committing to the first, unprotected move to the first bolt off the ledge.
Either way, you'll then embark on an enjoyable, though repetitive, journey up the 85 degree face on some of the most impeccable stone in Vermont. A short but devious crux is encountered fairly low on the route, capped by several small runouts above. The runouts are all on very moderate/easy terrain, though, so there should be nothing to worry about.
Politics ends at a set of anchors on a comfortable ledge shared with the neighboring route to the right ("Crimp Chimp").
Two rappels with one 60 meter rope will get you down.
Politics has a common start with "Crimp Chimp", then breaks hard left at the overlap/ledge until you are in front of the small birch tree. Take a deep breath, and make a quasi-committing move up to the first bolt. A fall from before clipping the first bolt would be less than ideal, so if one chooses, a yellow Alien can be placed from a comfortable, standing position in a small crack/pod to help tame the pucker effect before committing to the first, unprotected move to the first bolt off the ledge.
Either way, you'll then embark on an enjoyable, though repetitive, journey up the 85 degree face on some of the most impeccable stone in Vermont. A short but devious crux is encountered fairly low on the route, capped by several small runouts above. The runouts are all on very moderate/easy terrain, though, so there should be nothing to worry about.
Politics ends at a set of anchors on a comfortable ledge shared with the neighboring route to the right ("Crimp Chimp").
Two rappels with one 60 meter rope will get you down.
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