This is the route between Kashmere and Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry that may also be known as Youza. The Knapp book lists it at 5.10a! At 10a, it may be a bit of a sandbag, but it's a good route nonetheless. The line is well bolted with good hardware and chains at the top.
By Chris I From: Fresno, CA May 9, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
GREAT ROUTE and the ultimate sandbag. My climbing partner jumped on this for a warmup thinking it was 10a. About 6 moves in he figured out otherwise. He ended up getting to the anchors in good style, but what a surprise.
The movement on this climb is fantastic and it is definitely worth doing. This route packs a punch from start to finish.
So!, so close to getting the onsight. Oh well, my first 12a onsight will have to wait for another day. Super fun! Well-protected. So if you're like me and don't have many 5.12 climbs under your belt, this is a good one to go for.