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View from the top of pitch 2
This 3 pitch route ascends the far right side of Lost Boys.
P1. Begin right of a dead tree stump. Ascend shallow broken corners to a belay under a roof. Discontinous, odd, so-so climbing, 20m. 5.9
P2. Traverse left from the belay, pull into a corner and get established on the slab above the lip (crux), then continue up easier ground to the anchor. Nice pitch. Solid 5.10a, 20m.
P3. Follow a few bolts up the easy face to the highest anchor. Somewhat runout. 5.7, 20m.
It is possible to combine P1&P2. Make judicious use of long runners near the P1 belay and also for bolts 3&4 on P1 to keep rope drag reasonable.
It is difficult to communicate with your second from the top of P2, and if the second falls low in the crux it can be quite challenging to get back on the route.
From the anchor on P3 with 2 60m ropes, rappel to the ground. Otherwise, from the P2 anchor make 2 single rope rappels-- either to the anchor above N4 (hanging and not super comfy), or the first pitch anchor of N2.
|By Michael Davidson|
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 17, 2011
The crux took some thought but was very fun. Cool route on a great wall.