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The Planet Eater 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway
Page Views: 1,704
Submitted By: Boodge Nomchompski on Feb 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Marie Louka On Planet Eater

Description 

Slabby technical start to a lieback to jugs as it gets steeper.

Location 

Just right of a bolted arete (War of the Worlds), this climb goes straight up the face.

Protection 

Bolts and chains


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The Planet Eater (July 2014)
BETA PHOTO: The Planet Eater (July 2014)

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2012
By Luke Bertelsen
Feb 23, 2009

Wasps = no stars. I once got stung while leading at Willow Canyon Crags. No me gusta!!!!!
By jbak
Feb 23, 2009

I can top that....when I first led this route (1993 ?) someone was shooting a gun at me from the cabin area across the canyon.
By dcohn
Feb 24, 2009

This is a great climb when there are no wasps. I have never seen them there before so maybe its seasonal.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 24, 2009

RAID!!! For the wasps not the bullets.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 29, 2009

We did this one Mar 22, but didn't have to tangle with the wasps. But, then again, it was about 50 degrees and super windy. Mebe it's a cold thing and they'll emerge when it heats up?
By Boodge Nomchompski
Apr 25, 2009

All evidence of the wasps was gone today. A really good climb that punches you in the face if you think it's over before the chains.
By Chris Prewitt
May 4, 2009

The topo in the book breaks this out in three pitches and it seems like it might be tough to link 1&2 for only two pitches. The total length seems to be closer to 260'

When doing all three pitches, is it possible to rap to the ground in two raps with one rope? The book made it sound like two 80' raps get back down. Unless we missed something, the first rap (last pitch) was way more than half of a rope 130'. Schenanigans made up the difference.

This felt like a very sustained and interesting outing. Quite long and highly recommended.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2009

"jbaker" wrote:
I can top that....when I first led this route (1993 ?) someone was shooting a gun at me from the cabin area across the canyon.


holy crap john!

i bet he still sent. :)
By jbak
Dec 16, 2009

I was in the middle of a cruxy, kind-of-runout section up high when the bullets starting landing. My belayer said "Jesus...someone's shooting at us". My brain did a quick calculation of the chances of someone hitting me from across the canyon and came up with: don't sweat it, keep climbing.

My belayer and everyone else at the crag starting yelling loudly to get the shooter's attention. I'm assuming the shooter didn't know there were people on the rock. The shooting stopped pretty quickly.

Gives new meaning to the term "objective danger".
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 7, 2010

Did this in my Muiras and fell off the slab a couple of times as well as a bit higher when my feet slipped. It was pretty warm out. Borrowed Murdock's Acopas and it was like having glue on my feet. I want some of that rubber for my slab climbing shoes!
By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 4, 2011

Only climbed the first pitch yesterday, but it was super fun. Slab down low was really hard for me, but maybe Boosters aren't the best slab shoe...
By Chen
From: Tucson, AZ
May 27, 2012

Great route. Would be one of my favorite if I can skip the slab section at the bottom.