The Pit & The Pendulum
||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Laeger & Clark (August 1976) FFA: Kamps & partner (1977) Complete chimney: Rich Smith & Dick Shaum (1977)|
|Page Views: ||898|
|Submitted By: ||Mike on Aug 29, 2009|
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A fun route with options.
P1: Ascend the right facing corner for a long pitch to a belay stance (5.9). Alternately, one can do Gorilla Warfare to get to the belay.
P2: A short pitch. A few easy moves left, then up & right up an easy ramp/crack to belay at the base of a beautiful corner crack.
P3: A classic! Jam, undercling, & lieback up & left, then around the corner to even better climbing to a bolted belay (5.10b).
P4: Yopu have 2 options. Either climb straight up the chimney/offwidth (The Pit version) to the top, or pendulum left (the, um, Pendulum version) to another right facing corner which leads to the top. The Pit version is 5.10+, the Pendulum version is 5.9 A0.
From the top, scramble up to the summit (class 4), then the standard descent.
Starts down low on The Witch. Scramble down the notch to the right facing corner about 40' past (right of) Gorilla Warfare.
Doubles from small to #3 camalot, one set of nuts, and several slings. If doing The Pit version, also bring a #6 camalot or 2, and an optional big bro might also help.
Jul 19, 2010
Turning the lip after the layback is tricky, and consensus is the corner is stout for .10b.
From: Altadena, CA
Jul 19, 2010
Well, I feel better now... that pitch felt pretty stiff for .10a or whatever the topo says it is. I fell all over the place on it, and that's back when I could actually climb 5.10.
Mar 22, 2013
I spent three weeks climbing in the needles in the summer of '11 and I've got to say this was the proudest line I climbed in spite of the fact that I ended up taking just after the squeeze chimney "the pit." We climbed gorilla warfare into this route in order to maximize on offwidthery. Both routes I believe are rated 10+ but I found GW to be far easier than the crux pitch of the pit. At any rate super fun and wild climbing!