View from the back of the cave looking out across ...
Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.
The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
37 Total Routes
['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Pipe Dream
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pipe Dream:
Excavation 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Dry Spunk 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 85'
Solstice 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Le Spunk 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 60'
Dry Times 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 90'
Deliverance 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Orgasmo 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 90'
Sprout 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 90'
Diggler 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, 70'
Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
The Great Feast 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a UT
: Maple Canyon
: ... : The Pipe Dream
Straight out the center of the Pipe Dream Cave, this super long, and sustained route is all about endurance, resting, and staying relaxed.Start on two pinches, and climb an 11d to a huge jug at the 5th bolt. From this hold the angle of the wall steepens and the difficulty of the climbing increases. After resting, make a bunch of V3 moves to a right trending rail and continue up this feature to a jug. Do another 20 feet of V3 moves to a ledge where it's possible to get an upside-down double kn...[more] Browse More Classics in UT