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The Pipe Dream

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buddha's Belly S 
Dang Awesome S 
Deliverance S 
Diggler S 
Don't Mess With Confianza S 
Don't Mess With Texas S 
Dry Spunk S 
Dry Times S 
Ego Boost S 
Eulogy S 
Excavation S 
Great Feast, The S 
Kama Sutra Bicycle S 
La Confienza S 
Le Spunk S 
Long Present S 
Mexican Rodeo S 
Millennium S 
Mutton Bustin S 
Orgasmo S 
PipeDream S 
Rodeo Clown S 
Rucksack Wanderer S 
Solstice S 
Sprout S 
Squeel Like A Pig S 
SuperSpunk S 
T-Rex S 
Take it for the Team S 
Toxic Potatoes S 
Toxic Tomatoes S 
Toxic Turkey S 
Toxic Watermelon S 
Wake and Bake S 
Waterfall Route S 
Whole Shot S 
Wyoming Sheep Shagger S 

The Pipe Dream  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.5657, -111.6964 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,784
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004
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View from the back of the cave looking out across ...

Description 

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.

Getting There 

The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

37 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',10],['5.12',4],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',4],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pipe Dream:
Buddha's Belly   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Toxic Watermelon   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Kama Sutra Bicycle   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   
Toxic Potatoes   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Solstice   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Dry Spunk   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 85'   
Excavation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Take it for the Team   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Le Spunk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Wake and Bake   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Dry Times   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 90'   
Deliverance   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Orgasmo   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 90'   
Rucksack Wanderer   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport   
SuperSpunk   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 100'   
Sprout   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   
La Confienza   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Diggler   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 70'   
Toxic Turkey   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Great Feast   5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Classics in The Pipe Dream

Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
Missing the right kneebar at the crux of Sprout.

Sprout 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Pipe Dream
This is a great route, one of the easiest that climbs out of the pipedream proper. Some call it 13a/b on the basis that it consists of so many taxing moves.Starts out on some 11b that feels more like 5.10 up to the massive roof, skip the draw before the chains wiggle into a double kneebar hands off rest, clip the next draw rest then proceed. The next 6-7 draws consists of 2-3 finger pocket pulling at a steep angle moving right into eventually less steep terrain. Get a right kneebar master some t...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Pipe Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Pipe Dream Cave viewed from the back and through t...
BETA PHOTO: Pipe Dream Cave viewed from the back and through t...
Panoramic Shot from deep in Cave
Panoramic Shot from deep in Cave
surprisingly huge cave near pipe dream
surprisingly huge cave near pipe dream
Sprout (.13a) from inside the cave  dcranephoto.co...
Sprout (.13a) from inside the cave dcranephoto.co...
unknown climber on... unknown route (13a i think.....
unknown climber on... unknown route (13a i think.....
T-rex
T-rex
Kirsten and Dave!
Kirsten and Dave!
Fixed draws galore, you could give a 2 year old a ...
Fixed draws galore, you could give a 2 year old a ...
unknown climber on the diggler
unknown climber on the diggler
cave off to the left of the pipe dream
cave off to the left of the pipe dream
View from the back - climber falls on Wake and Bak...
View from the back - climber falls on Wake and Bak...
pipe dream profile
pipe dream profile

Comments on The Pipe Dream Add Comment
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By JH1
Dec 2, 2011
Here is a topo to the Pipe Dream Cave

Have fun!