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DescriptionLocated at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am. Getting ThereThe trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pipe Dream:
Toxic Watermelon 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Buddha's Belly 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Kama Sutra Bicycle 5.10d Sport, 80 feet
Toxic Potatoes 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Solstice 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Excavation 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Dry Spunk 5.11c Sport, 85 feet
Wake and Bake 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Le Spunk 5.11d Sport, 60 feet
Dry Times 5.12b Sport, 90 feet
Orgasmo 5.12c Sport, 90 feet
Deliverance 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Rucksack Wanderer 5.12d Sport
Sprout 5.13a Sport, 90 feet
La Confienza 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Diggler 5.13b Sport, 70 feet
Toxic Turkey 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Squeel Like A Pig 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Great Feast 5.13c/d Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 95 feet
Wyoming Sheep Shagger 5.13d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
Wyoming Sheep Shagger 5.13d UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Pipe Dream
Wyoming Sheep Shagger(WSS) is a bit unique for the Pipe Dream. Instead of slowly draining your stamina with rest after rest, WSS is all about big, thuggy moves, and continuing to move between quick shakes.Located on the left side of the Pipe Dream, just left of a large cave feature, WSS tackles a very steep section of the cave, that involves two distinct boulder problems before joining the end of La Confianza. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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