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 ADVANCED
Fin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beauty and the Beast T 
Brother From Another Planet T 
Court Summons T 
Crappucino T 
Demolition T 
DF T 
Dirty street Fight  T 
Double Trouble T 
Feltcher, The T 
FF1 T 
FF2 T 
Fin del Mundo T 
Finito T 
Finless Brown T 
Finnegan's Whiskers T 
Fintastic T 
Flight Time T 
Force It In T 
Hot Fun Sunday T 
Jewel of Denial T 
Nagasaki T 
No Beggin' T 
Nukanator T 
Piano, The T 
Salmon Run T 
Skid Row T 
Strike and Dip T 
Third World Lover T 
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 
Virgin Voyage T 
Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 
White Salamander T 
Wrasse T 

The Piano 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 1,459
Submitted By: Lon Black on Apr 2, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Jeremiah Meizis onsighting

Description 

Beautiful finger to thin finger crack. It's only 30 ft., but you have to work for it. Very strenuous. The climb is in between Walkin' Talkin' Bob and Brother From Another Planet. A huge boulder hides the start of this route. Start in a right facing corner and layback up to the roof. Pull up and left out of the roof in order to switch into the left facing corner. Use the face out left for your left foot. Sweet line.

Protection 

0.5 Camalot, 2 yellow Aliens, 2 or 3 green Aliens, 2 blue Aliens.


Photos of The Piano Slideshow Add Photo
Johan Gille on The Piano, The Fin, Indian Creek, Utah
BETA PHOTO: Johan Gille on The Piano, The Fin, Indian Creek, U...
This was my beta when my fingers wouldn't fit towards the top.
This was my beta when my fingers wouldn't fit towa...

Comments on The Piano Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
May 22, 2005

f.a. is Josh Gross i believe.
By david goldstein
Apr 12, 2006

In a reasonable world, I would give this route two stars, but I'm shorting it to bring the average down to an IC fair two star. In my book (and I actually discussed this with other people), there is no way a 30' IC pitch could ever warrant classic status.

That said, Piano is quite good while it lasts, though totally finger size dependant -- bigger is harder.
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 6, 2006

Correction: this climb is just to the right of brother from another planet
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Great crack but super short. Agree it's too short to be a classic at the creek but it would classic for sure if it were two or three times as long. Similarly it would be an 11- if it were longer too.

CL
By Cody Ferguson
From: Tempe, AZ
Mar 26, 2010

Absolutely beautiful--if only it were a bit longer.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun, less locking and more footwork than expected. Crux was not pulling the lip, it was up high.
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 24, 2013

my fingers don't fit in this thing for a move near the top .. kind of hard for fat fingered folks..
By EldoFiend
From: WY
Jan 25, 2013

Devin, wasn't this "White Cracker Killer?"
By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Jan 25, 2013

yes EF you are right on .. im glad some one finely pointed this out..
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 17, 2014

Bloom guide calls it unnamed 5.11

And I thought it felt hard for 10+