|Cascade Falls - Upper
"The Phoenix" sits high on the wall, west of Cascade Falls.
This awesome crack is the first 5.13 recorded.
From the west side of Tamarack Creek Bridge, 2 miles west of Hwy 120/140 junction. Walk down to a flat area, cross a stream and continue to the brink of the cliff, rappel to the base of the crack.
Small to 2.25".
Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987
photo by bob gaines
Ray Jardine on The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite Valle...
View of the climb in its entirety from the belay.
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 2, 2007
It also has some interesting looking piton-scar chipped holds.
From: Concord, MA
Apr 10, 2009
True, the chipped/beat-out pinscar pockets are a shame. the route would be quite a bit harder without them.
Apr 18, 2009
They're so nice and smooth for your fingers, though!
Also, ants can sometimes provide a miserable experience at the belay 'stance', as can failing to bring a belay seat of some sort.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 8, 2013
Ray Jardine purposely chipped holds to make the first free ascent, it just is not discussed often. Also, Jerry Moffatt was the first person to flash The Phoenix in 1984. This was at the height of his training for and traveling to hard cracks around the world, before he took up sport climbing.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 18, 2014
It's odd this page has a pic of Ray Jardine on the FA (1977) but then reports Mark Hudon as doing the FA a year later.
|By adam brink|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2014
Didn't Mark Hudon do the second ascent, not first?
|By Jon Rhoderick|
Feb 1, 2014
I believe Jardine yoyo'ed it or hung dog it and claimed the FA? Hudon led it without cams placing all gear on lead, and partially dislocated his shoulder on the ascent.