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Meltdown 
Phoenix, The 

The Phoenix 

5.13a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
FA: (TR) Ray Jardine and John Lakey, April 1976, FFA (Lead) Mark Hudon, May 1978
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Bill Price leading "The Phoenix", 1981.
Photo by B...


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Description 

"The Phoenix" sits high on the wall, west of Cascade Falls.
This awesome crack is the first 5.13 recorded.


Location 

From the west side of Tamarack Creek Bridge, 2 miles west of Hwy 120/140 junction. Walk down to a flat area, cross a stream and continue to the brink of the cliff, rappel to the base of the crack.


Protection 

Small to 2.25".



Photos of The Phoenix Slideshow Add Photo
View of the climb in its entirety from the belay. <br /> <br />Photo by Jeanna, '08

View of the climb in its entirety from the belay.
...


Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987 <br /> <br />photo by bob gaines

Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987

photo by bob gaines


The Phoenix

The Phoenix

Ray Jardine on The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite Valley. Photo by George Meyers.

Ray Jardine on The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite Valle...


Comments on The Phoenix Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 2, 2007

It also has some interesting looking piton-scar chipped holds.

By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 10, 2009

True, the chipped/beat-out pinscar pockets are a shame. the route would be quite a bit harder without them.

By Drewsky
Apr 18, 2009

They're so nice and smooth for your fingers, though!
Also, ants can sometimes provide a miserable experience at the belay 'stance', as can failing to bring a belay seat of some sort.

By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 17, 2011

Supertopo thread, including some great photos of the second ascent
www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/794170/The-Phoenix

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Jun 17, 2011

Alex Honnold ropeless on this gem...

By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 8, 2013

Ray Jardine purposely chipped holds to make the first free ascent, it just is not discussed often. Also, Jerry Moffatt was the first person to flash The Phoenix in 1984. This was at the height of his training for and traveling to hard cracks around the world, before he took up sport climbing.