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Cascade Falls - Upper
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Meltdown T 
Phoenix, The T 

The Phoenix 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: (TR) Ray Jardine and John Lakey, April 1976, FFA (Lead) Mark Hudon, May 1978
Page Views: 12,858
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006

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Bill Price leading "The Phoenix", 1981. ...

Description 

"The Phoenix" sits high on the wall, west of Cascade Falls.
This awesome crack is the first 5.13 recorded.

Location 

From the west side of Tamarack Creek Bridge, 2 miles west of Hwy 120/140 junction. Walk down to a flat area, cross a stream and continue to the brink of the cliff, rappel to the base of the crack.

Protection 

Small to 2.25".


Photos of The Phoenix Slideshow Add Photo
Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987  photo by bob gaines
Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987 photo by bob gaines
The Phoenix
The Phoenix
Ray Jardine on The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite Valle...
Ray Jardine on The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite Valle...
View of the climb in its entirety from the belay. ...
View of the climb in its entirety from the belay. ...
1979
1979
1979
1979

Comments on The Phoenix Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 2, 2007

It also has some interesting looking piton-scar chipped holds.
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 10, 2009

True, the chipped/beat-out pinscar pockets are a shame. the route would be quite a bit harder without them.
By Drewsky
Apr 18, 2009

They're so nice and smooth for your fingers, though!
Also, ants can sometimes provide a miserable experience at the belay 'stance', as can failing to bring a belay seat of some sort.
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Mar 17, 2011

Supertopo thread, including some great photos of the second ascent
supertopo.com/climbers-forum/7...
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Jun 17, 2011

Alex Honnold ropeless on this gem...
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 8, 2013

Ray Jardine purposely chipped holds to make the first free ascent, it just is not discussed often. Also, Jerry Moffatt was the first person to flash The Phoenix in 1984. This was at the height of his training for and traveling to hard cracks around the world, before he took up sport climbing.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 18, 2014

It's odd this page has a pic of Ray Jardine on the FA (1977) but then reports Mark Hudon as doing the FA a year later.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2014

Didn't Mark Hudon do the second ascent, not first?
By Jon Rhoderick
Feb 1, 2014

I believe Jardine yoyo'ed it or hung dog it and claimed the FA? Hudon led it without cams placing all gear on lead, and partially dislocated his shoulder on the ascent.