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Starts with a straight in hand crack with some finger locks on a steep face. Pass a very old ring on a piton before making some sport moves to a fun mantle. On pitch two climb a short wide crack to the left. Continue up discontinuous cracks and then follow a low angle arete to fixed anchors at the peak. This last section is unprotected (and therefore the R rating) but pretty easy.
This route is located on the left side of the Gardener's Wall. Look for a dark water stain that gives the false impression of a corner. Getting to the start is a pain in the ..... You can't walk along the base of the wall to get to and from the routes on the right. So approach the route from the left or any way that works. Note that there is a short section of wide class five climbing to get on top of the boulder where the start of the route lies.
Bring a standard rack up to a fist size piece. Build a gear anchor at the top of pitch one. There are fixed anchors at the top of pitch two. I walked off so I'm not sure if you can lower with one rope. Two ropes should get you down safely.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the middle pitch. (first in the rout...
BETA PHOTO: Cory leading the last pitch as he reaches the expo...
BETA PHOTO: A view down the last pitch from the top anchors
BETA PHOTO: View of the 2nd pitch (first in the route descript...
The old ring piton at the top of the finger crack ...
Nas coming up the 1st pitch.
|By Sam Prentice|
Mar 29, 2009
The lower half of the first pitch is absolutely stellar, steep, continuous 5.7. Among the best climbing at that grade you'll encounter anywhere, albeit over too soon. The easy but exposed arete finish makes this climb more than a one pitch wonder.
Their respective length differences aside, I wish this climb was adjacent to mental physics, so people could feel how a real four star 5.7 presents itself.
Combine this climb with Renaissance direct and your half-day is prime for smiles.
|By Tim Heid|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
That first pitch was a lot of fun, the steep and thin climbing is great. The second pitch is enjoyable as well, with a variety of moves from thin to wide. Save the #4 for the last horizontal placement before the R section. The R section is about 30' of very easy arete climbing at probably 5.3. Don't sweat it and just go for it.
I found the easiest way to get to the base of the climb is to climb Renaissance Direct or Hanging Gardern's and walk over to the Phatom's anchors. Double rope rap onto the last boulder. You'll avoid the awkward wide climbing to get on top of the starting boulder.
Gear to 4". Bring 2 #3's for the gear anchor on top of pitch 1.
EDIT: After doing this one again the other day I found that a #4 wasn't necessary for the last part. The crack accepts a few smaller sizes well. So If you are bringing the #4 for just this pitch, I'd suggest leaving it at home.