The Petroglyph

Two stars as a Top Rope, set from the White Line Fever anchor. ( Reached either by traversing from the Friday’s Friends / Bonzai anchor or climbing White Line Fever.) 

Another "Kurt Winkler" friction special. According to Ed Webster, he used tied-off skyhooks as "protection". [ I'm not sure who started first, but the arch-anti-bolting Ken Nichols tried to "popularize" this method of "protection" with an article in one of the climbing magazines of the day. Somehow, it never took off...maybe because an engineer "did the math" on how much force a 1/4" of hard-tempered, chromoly steel would hold before it broke. ]

Approach- The same approach as Bonsai, but continue past "Bonsai", "Super-Slab", and "Friday's" moving uphill along the base. When the land levels off ( about 40-50 ft beyond the start of "Super-Slab's dike & "Friday's" [and NOT "100 ft" as some guidebooks have it]) look for the "mask" of the "petroglyph" in the rock. (photos)

Note: This climb is not, technically, on the "Perfect Wave Slab", but to the right. Before "Bubbles" was put in, it was the only climb here, so it didn't seem worth creating a separate "Area".

For those whose longevity leans towards not leading 5.8+ X, two 60 m ropes through the White Line Fever anchor, perhaps extending it, and a judicious directional piece of gear ( or 2) and this route can be TR'd. (Yes, the individual; pitch lengths as described total more than 200ft, but that accounts for some zig-zag which you don't have when rapping or TR-ing.)

P1 - This may, or may not, describe the exact route of the F.A. We solo TR'd this from the trees before White Line was put in, and I don't remember the "pocket" described in Webster's description, most probably we were a bit too far left (or right)!

Webster starts his overall description by saying “ straight up" the brown streak on thin friction, moving right “    but then in the specific wording for P1 he says to climb up to grey rock up right and then left and up on thinner friction. 3-5" ledges at flake/corners might provide a belay if you're leading. 110-120 +/- 5.8+ X

“Straight up” the brown streak ( which is only a couple of feet right of the mask) looks VERY THIN and looks devoid of possible protection for at least 70-80 ft.

 However, if you move up and slightly left from the mask you’ll pass through a small quartz pocket about 25 ft up, make a few moves and you reach a 3 inch wide ledge about 10 ft higher.  A skyhook would fit into the bottoming crack at the back of this flake/ledge. Up and right 10-15 ft is another nearly identical 2-3 inch ledge/flake. Thin friction moves lead to wider ledges and, if desired, trees on the right. This is all a little left of the brown streak. 

P2 - Easier climbing to the trees, or start moving left to the Bonsai anchor. 100-110 ft 5.3-5.4

Descend - Rap from the White Line Fever anchor in two raps with a single 60m down to the Friday’s Friends intermediate rap station and then to the ground, or make a single rap with with double 60m’s being sure to rap to climber's/rapeller's RIGHT (viewer's / rope thrower's LEFT) of the tree island.