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 ADVANCED
The Beach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albinestone S 
Apes and Ballerinas T 
Between the Cheeks S 
Dead Reckoning (aka the Terry-Michaels route) T,S 
Heaven's rear-entry vehicle, parked out back, tow away zone T 
Normandy S 
Perverse Traverse, The S 
Up'er Zipper T,S 

The Perverse Traverse 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Jun 11, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Looking back towards The Black Sea from The Beach....

Description 

At one time this crossing (from the Black Sea to the Beach) was mocked by calling it a 5.5 belly crawl. Now it is a clean 5.2 A0 or 5.8+. Perhaps not yet celebrated, but definitely a lot more fun. Try doing it without grabbing the wire or bolt hangers and see how hard you think it is.

Location 

Start in the 'cave' behind the Guardian block, just above Ted, Ted Nugent and Black Planet, and just below the Black Sea route.

Protection 

Just one piece -- a cable that spans the crossing. Attach a runner or two to your harness and then clip the cable with a locking biner or two. Then slide the biner(s) along as you traverse. When the biner hits an attachment point that holds the cable, just lift the cable up and slide the biner past.

If you want to be more sporting, lead it traditionally, hooking your rope over the half-dozen or so attachment points. Belay at the cable anchors.


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