Type: | Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 7,608 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Feb 1, 2008 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
One of my favorite routes at Frankenstein for sure, though the lower slabby climbing is not anything special the pillar and chimney at the top get full marks for quality...
Pitch 1: Start up the often very thin, lower angle climbing from the base... This section can be unprotectable for a while so bring a steady nerve... follow this slab (Which gets fatter and safer as you go) for a long pitch making a couple tricky sometimes mixed moves to gain a ledge on the left below a nice pillar... belay from trees or screws...
This ledge can also be accessed by traversing right from the right side of Standard Route... Thereby getting a safer and steeper start to the route...
Pitch 2: Climb the nice pillar to a ledge where you can belay if you'd like to split up the pitch... I normally place a piece of rock gear here as a directional for the second as they mantel the pillar... Step right and climb some awkward ice to get in to the chimney which is the real prize of the climb... True mixed climbing in moderate form where you are climbing rock moves, pure ice, and dry tooling and none of it is too strenuous... a few pieces of rock gear go in here for pro and before you know it you are pulling over the top and belaying in the trees...
Some people like to split these pitches up for better communication and visual contact, but i like doing it in two pitches...
Pitch 1: Start up the often very thin, lower angle climbing from the base... This section can be unprotectable for a while so bring a steady nerve... follow this slab (Which gets fatter and safer as you go) for a long pitch making a couple tricky sometimes mixed moves to gain a ledge on the left below a nice pillar... belay from trees or screws...
This ledge can also be accessed by traversing right from the right side of Standard Route... Thereby getting a safer and steeper start to the route...
Pitch 2: Climb the nice pillar to a ledge where you can belay if you'd like to split up the pitch... I normally place a piece of rock gear here as a directional for the second as they mantel the pillar... Step right and climb some awkward ice to get in to the chimney which is the real prize of the climb... True mixed climbing in moderate form where you are climbing rock moves, pure ice, and dry tooling and none of it is too strenuous... a few pieces of rock gear go in here for pro and before you know it you are pulling over the top and belaying in the trees...
Some people like to split these pitches up for better communication and visual contact, but i like doing it in two pitches...
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