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Penguin, The 
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The Penguin 


Type:  Ice, 2 pitches
Consensus: WI4 [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,538
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 1, 2008

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Yep. It's mixed.


One of my favorite routes at Frankenstein for sure, though the lower slabby climbing is not anything special the pillar and chimney at the top get full marks for quality...

Pitch 1: Start up the often very thin, lower angle climbing from the base... This section can be unprotectable for a while so bring a steady nerve... follow this slab (Which gets fatter and safer as you go) for a long pitch making a couple tricky sometimes mixed moves to gain a ledge on the left below a nice pillar... belay from trees or screws...

This ledge can also be accessed by traversing right from the right side of Standard Route... Thereby getting a safer and steeper start to the route...

Pitch 2: Climb the nice pillar to a ledge where you can belay if you'd like to split up the pitch... I normally place a piece of rock gear here as a directional for the second as they mantel the pillar... Step right and climb some awkward ice to get in to the chimney which is the real prize of the climb... True mixed climbing in moderate form where you are climbing rock moves, pure ice, and dry tooling and none of it is too strenuous... a few pieces of rock gear go in here for pro and before you know it you are pulling over the top and belaying in the trees...

Some people like to split these pitches up for better communication and visual contact, but i like doing it in two pitches...


After walking to the base of Standard Route continue down the tracks a short distance and look up in to woods... you will see a thin slab of ice heading up bulges... This is your route...


Bring some stubbies for the thin lower part (or be ready to run it out)... for the chimney section bring a small rack of nuts and cams...

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The topout.
The topout.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 20, 2010

very interesting conditions on penguin today.... lots of ice but that didnt make it any easier... the first pitch however was totally safe for a change... the whole route was in fat, go do it!
By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Jan 8, 2011

I would give the last pitch 5 stars if I could. So much fun!
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