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 ADVANCED
Easter Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbarians S 
Catwoman S 
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 
Coloradoddity S 
Dark Knight S 
Dynamic Duel S 
Egg S 
Elanor S 
Empire of the Fenceless S 
Evermore S 
Flying Beast, The S 
Joker, The S 
Knappweed Herbacide S 
Mr. Two-Face S 
Nevermore S 
New Road S 
New Test Of Men S 
Penguin, The S 
Pterodactyl Traverse S 
Rain Shadow T 
Riddler, The S 
Road To Emmaus S 
Surrounded By Reality S 
Tell-Tale Heart S 
Thunderdome T 
White Men Can't Jump S 
Willard S 

The Penguin 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: M. Rolofson
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 14, 2005

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is sort of the indirect start to Catwoman (or Catwoman is the direct start to this...whatever). Begin to the right of Catwoman and left of Willard. Make much-more-difficult-than-they-look moves up and left to a very slopey shelf. Make a burly stand-up move onto the shelf (crux) and latch the obvious juggy flake. From here, traverse up and left to the tricky mantle finish of The Joker.

This is kind of a one move wonder but with the sustained, slopey, 5.11 climbing below the crux. It is a surprisingly pumpy route. It is a good climb but not nearly as good as the other classics on this crag.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with The Joker.


Comments on The Penguin Add Comment
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By Chris Archer
Jul 2, 2012

Climbing the arete slightly right of the crimpy crux makes it 12a.
By erik rieger
From: Gold Hill, CO
Jan 12, 2014

Not too bad until you hit the crux. Then it's hard.