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Willard 

The Penguin 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: M. Rolofson
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 14, 2005
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Description 

This is sort of the indirect start to Catwoman (or Catwoman is the direct start to this...whatever). Begin to the right of Catwoman and left of Willard. Make much-more-difficult-than-they-look moves up and left to a very slopey shelf. Make a burly stand-up move onto the shelf (crux) and latch the obvious juggy flake. From here, traverse up and left to the tricky mantle finish of The Joker.

This is kind of a one move wonder but with the sustained, slopey, 5.11 climbing below the crux. It is a surprisingly pumpy route. It is a good climb but not nearly as good as the other classics on this crag.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared with The Joker.



Comments on The Penguin Add Comment
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By Chris Archer
Jul 2, 2012

Climbing the arete slightly right of the crimpy crux makes it 12a.

By erik rieger
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2014

Not too bad until you hit the crux. Then it's hard.