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The Black Pearl
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Anteater 
Anteater Direct 
Mr. Gibbs 
Pearl, The 

The Pearl 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 16'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Justin Hausmann (stand) J.Baker (sds)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,435
Submitted By: half-pad-mini-jug on Jun 6, 2009
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Description 

The Pearl is a very tricky, technical, fun problem. Sds on the arete right of the overhanging face using a juggy left sidepull and a right hand sloper around the arete. Bump up right to the flat sloper and with some footwork trickery, make your way up the arete to the sloping knob with crystals on it and pull over the arete to a good crimp that you can match. Finally, a desperate couple of 5.11ish slab moves will take you to the top.


Location 

Arete right of the overhanging face on The Black Pearl.


Protection 

Pads.



Photos of The Pearl Slideshow Add Photo
Jables in the middle of the crux.
Jables in the middle of the crux.
Right route.
BETA PHOTO: Right route.
Almost there....
Almost there....
Hitting the big move.
Hitting the big move.
Comments on The Pearl Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 4, 2011
By Luke Childers
Jun 8, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Hey Darth,
Cool that you are getting some of that area posted. I was working on posting info on that very same area as we speak. As far as I know no one had given this area a name yet and I am digging you choice of names for sure.

I have not done "The Black Pearl" yet but have know about it for many years. I don't know who may have done the F.A. either. Bob Horan put it in his recent guide as "Anteater (V10)." I don't think he is responsible for the F.A. but I am really not sure.

No offense meant to Bob, but I like the name you gave the line. "The Black Pearl" is really cool and I'm all for your keeping that name for the line.

As I said, I have not done that line but I know others that have and I think the grade of around V8 would correspond to what I have heard about the line. I had planed on getting on this line for a long time I just keep passing it over for some reason? I think I will go hit it this week or the next. I had forgotten what a great line it is.

There are loads of really nice problems in this, not to often traveled, area. Possible one of the best and least know areas at the Sisters to date, and I am glad it's going to get the attention it deserve. Nice work.

Luke Childer

By Luke Childers
Jun 9, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Cool, Darth,
I believe you on the grade biz. The line looks so nice. I have got to get on that!! Nice work...for sure!!

By justin hausmann
Jun 12, 2009

I cleaned and sent this line about 4 years ago and was guessing it was the first ascent because the amount of lichen on the slab but who knows. I didn't recall it being as hard as V8 but need to go back and send again before down rating. It is a great line though. I also did some really short stuff, one move wonder, warm ups, coming out of the short roof on the left of the picture.
Thanks, Luke, for getting me on this site.

By Luke Childers
Jun 12, 2009
rating: V8 7B

No problem, Justin - I might go for that hog in the morning if the weather works out for me!? Cant wait to roll that sucker!!! For sure.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jun 19, 2009

Cool Justin, changed the fa info... Ya, I thought the route (once I figured the beta) was pretty easy even to run laps on like V6-7, and asked a buddy who thought it more in the 7-8 range. It all depends on your style, and I guess this is just my style.

By Luke Childers
Jun 19, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Oh my god!!!
Final got on this problem today and it was so..so..so.. good. Worked out the moves with Said. Almost had a late afternoon send but just couldn't pull it together to hit the sharp left handed nob-like hold that's before the move to the crimp on the slab. So I got all the moves and that sweet hart is going down on my next outing. Maybe even tomorrow.

Also, I started working and cleaning the higher continuing arete as well. This line can and will go all the way up the arete/prow. I put all but two of the moves together before the dark of the night ran me off. It's looking like it could be V9 or so? Can't know until the send. Anyway, darth man you should give it a go all the way to the top with out moving right onto the slab!! It's so cool. I have got to finish the original line and then I am going to target the full value arete/prow. I love this boulder and these lines. Some of the best in town!!!

By Jon Roberts
Apr 10, 2010
rating: V6 7A

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 1, 2010
rating: V8- 7B

Excellent Line!

By Squish
From: Lakewood
Jun 15, 2010
rating: V7-8 7B

Bitchn' line, yo. Totally had a blast sending this today!

By Andrew Vojslavek
Jun 23, 2010
rating: V7 7A+

Some of the best rock in 3 Sisters, and some very interesting moves. Solid V7.

Nice one, Darth.

By DJ RYNO
From: chatfield lake ,co
Dec 14, 2010
rating: V8 7B

What a great route!!! Took a while for me to unlock the beta, feels pretty solid for the grade.

By rufusjmiller
Jan 4, 2011

Super problem. Can't believe I missed this one on my many missions to this area. My brute force beta did not work. Will try again soon.