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Catwalk Cliff
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The Pearl 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chuck Buzzard, Jerry Radant -Oct 1983
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 1,347
Submitted By: Karsten on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

A true gem amoung cracks. The pearl is hard for the grade but one of the finest cracks of the gorge seams. This seam has multiple hard section with a funky crux up high moving through a small roof. Above the crux the climbing eases but the climbing becomes runnout.

Location 

The route is located to the left of a wide crack on the narrow catwalk.

Protection 

Bring a full selection of gear to a #3 camalot with extras in the smaller sizes. I found an offset alien and red loweball comforting at the crux and above.


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By Vernon Stiefel
May 16, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is the best 5.11 trad climb I have done in the Lower Gorge (On The Road is a close second). The crux move for me was a powerful lieback just below the roof. The best gear placements were HB offsets and small stoppers interspersed with small to medium cams to 1".
By ferrells
Jun 5, 2010

Ditto on the small gear. I used doubles of small nuts (BD #7 to #4), and a few small cams. The only place to put a large cam (used a yellow link cam) is in the roof after the crux. Best single pitch of trad I've ever done at Smith, maybe anywhere.
By James E King
From: Bend, OR
Jan 8, 2014

I second the positive feedback on this route. So good. You can put a #6 or 7 Metolius cam in the pod just before the last crux. Also, I cut the old webbing off the anchor bolts and hung chain up, so that's a plus.