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 ADVANCED
The Pear

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil's Lake Revisited T 
Dextrous Digits T,TR 
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 
Finger Tripping T 
Gina's Surprise T 
Good Timing T,S 
Heavenly Journey T 
Jam on It T,TR 
La Chaim T 
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 
Neko's Route T,S 
Northern Lights T 
Pit of the Pear, The T 
Platinum Stethoscope T 
Right Dihedral T 
Root of All Evil T 
Salud T 
Sibling Rivalry T,S 
Slippage T 
Sloper Ramp 
Sweet Sabrina T 
Thorazine T 
Whole Thing T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Pear  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.4102, -105.54653 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,678
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
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Looking up toward the rap anchor from the corridor...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

West of all the Books, an intruiging combination of good beginner routes, odd-looking overhangs, and enjoyable bolted slabs. Do La Chaim (5.7), Good Timing (5.10a), and Fat-Bottomed Groove (5.10d R) for a taste of all three.

Descent: you can walk off nearly nearly every climb after two pitches. Routes west of the landmark, giant Batrachian Dihedral intersect a convenient ledge. East of the dihedral, the "walk off" is quite confusing--wander over to the right (east) when things get lower-angle and easy, and look for a way off--the best way is counterintuitively higher than it appears, though it is easy enough to do a short rappel from most points lower than that. If summitting (usually 4-5 pitches), rappel from slings to the north and hike around east to the base.

Getting There 

Go on the west trail from the new parking lot towards the old Twin Owls trailhead ~0.6 miles. Follow signs west from the old Twin Owls trailhead along the flatter/lower Black Canyon Trail. Continue past the trail to the Book. There is a sign marking the trail to the Pear. This is just West of the Bookend. ~45-55 minutes to approach.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.4 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',5],['5.8',1],['5.9',8],['5.10',6],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pear:
Gina's Surprise   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 150'   
La Chaim   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches   
Sibling Rivalry   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Jam on It   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Right Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Root of All Evil   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Slippage   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 400'   
Good Timing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches   
Whole Thing   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in The Pear

Featured Route For The Pear
Clip this pin, very visible from the ground, and t...

Whole Thing 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear
This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of Fat Bottomed Groove.1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack. 2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Pear Slideshow Add Photo
Erin, 3, playing on the great beginner rock of the...
Erin, 3, playing on the great beginner rock of the...
The Pear with Observatory Dome in the upper left c...
The Pear with Observatory Dome in the upper left c...
A view of the corridor just below the summit of th...
A view of the corridor just below the summit of th...
The Pear (right) and Sundance (left) as seen from ...
BETA PHOTO: The Pear (right) and Sundance (left) as seen from ...

Comments on The Pear Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2001
The very highest northern pinnacle has chains you can rap from - though we used double 60s and easily reached the ground, it might have been close with a single, as you're dropping into a deep trench. Alternately, scramble about 100' east to a bulbous rock where there are another set of chains with a considerably shorter drop. Then follow class II/III descent to the east and around - though one girl in our party had a spectacular feet over head spin fall (probably 7.8 out of 10) after stepping on a loose boulder - so do so carefully.
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001
The perfect rock for a fun and mellow day of climbing, especially for beginers. It's got the easiest approach of any of Lumpy's formations and a greater collection of easy to moderate routes. It's definitely got its challenging runout routes as well, but it can't be beat if you're looking for a day of rest and relaxation on the rock.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2002
A single 60m rope makes the rap from the summit. Rossiter claims this rap is only 75 feet so it would appear even a single 50m rope would make it. It is possible to walk off to the west from here, although this involves downclimbing some 5.0 slabs - not recommended!
By Errett Allen
Aug 19, 2002
First time I did Chrome Plated, got caught in a raging snowstorm on the 4th pitch. I discovered you can easily get off the Pear by traversing left (west) to an obvious pine tree that is below the summit headwall. The ledge turns the corner to the right (north) at this tree. The pine often has rap slings on it, but just continue traversing straight north across blocks and ledges beyond it (third class -- some exposure) into the west descent gully.