Approach: ~1 hour Time to climb Route: 4-7 hours Descent: 1.25 hours
The Peacemaker was the name Wyatt Erp gave to his gun while he was sheriff of Tombstone.
Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. Much less committing feeling than Absinthe of Mallet due to the number of bolts. Bolts were added by the first ascentionist, so don't go chopping. The first four pitches are the best and most sustained, IMO. All pitches offer climbing at or near the 5.10a level. Most of the cruxes are slab moves and well protected. There are only a few sections that could be called runout, but all on easy ground (5.6ish). One thing to keep in mind is that just because the bolt line is railroad straight doesn't mean the climbing is. Often you'll climb left or right and step back to clip the bolts.
P1: 50m, 5.10a slab climbing past a small lip for 9 bolts. Slight runout 2/3rd of the way up. Follow the last 3 bolts up left into the chimney. The finish is on some steep ground with a little chimney move. 12 bolts, good stance belay
P2: Shorter pitch, 5.10a. Follow the bolts up the arete past several roofs with jug holds to another good stance. Awesome pitch with fun moves!
P3: Longer pitch, 5.10a up and right following the bolts. The climbing is easier to the right of the bolt line. It is possible to skip a clip or two here and stay on the easier ground to the right, but don't fall then. Finish the pitch on a bear hug of two cracks to another good stance belay
P4: IMO the crux pitch, 5.10a. Start right up the overhang from the belay and the crux is the multiple slab sections above. Look for hidden face holds. Probably harder for short people. Finishes on a great ledge right of a tree/bush
P5: Short and easier pitch. 5.10a moves off the ledge past several bolts left of the tree above, then suddenly very easy climbing leads to a gigantic ledge with bolts all over the place.
P6: 50m, <=5.10a. The original route follows the bolts up from the anchors slightly to the left. The far left route at the shuts is Stampede and those last two pitches go at 5.10d and 5.10c. The right hand line of bolts from the anchor is the last 2 pitches of Mad Cow Disease (5.10d)
P7: Can be linked with P6 with a 60m rope. Several final bolts to the top 2 bolt anchors. Continue up on 3rd class to summit and sign the register marked by an elaborate cairn pile.
Location, Topo, & Beta Pics
Located 50' right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50' until you see the obviouse slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Walk-off down the descent gully on the left (North) marked with cairns.
Definitely a nice route. A lot more frictiony than TTTD and without any real runouts. As far as rack goes, I used a couple of small aliens to calm me down but nothing any bigger. Probably not worth bothering with a rack though.
Great Route; did this on 1-21-08, Every pitch is excellent, some moderately tricky, balancy face moves on PI and PIV and some mild runout's keep things interesting for sure, and the feeling of exposure being up there is incredible. We did this in 7 pitches but in hindsight you can easily link P6 and P7 into one long pitch with a 60 or 70M rope. Very well bolted for the most part, a few runouts on easy chickenhead hiking which can optionallyh be protected by slinging small chickenheads or throwing in some small pieces [only piece I placed was a .5 camalot on PI]. Overall a stellar route; definitely recommend it... now to give 'Too tough to Die" and "Ewephoria' a try.. :)
If this grade is near your limit, I'd recommend a single set of cams up to #1 BD and a set of nuts. There's maybe 4-6 placements across the first few pitches, YMMV. The climbing is great, maybe my fave on the buttress. First time I did it, I was struck by how much of the climbing is at grade, seemed like at least half of the moves on the route were 5.10 or 10-.
Pitch 4: When the leader reaches a short gully with some sticks and dirt in it they are at the last bolt and should continue straight up to the anchors. There is a route to the right of Peacemaker that comes very near and could tempt the leader to follow that line of bolts. Pitch 6-7: Very easy to link up these two pitches with a 60 meter. There are many routes up here and I think I may have finished on a different route. But they are all 5.10. Very fun route and the bolts protected it well.
This is a great climb and fairly sustained. It seems especially so when you're getting furiously hailed on!
Per the rack comments: It's great that some people are having fun with the whole "no rack necessary" thing, but, even being what I'd consider a pretty solid 5.10 leader, I was more than happy to have a rack up to 1". Hauling up a few pieces adds almost no weight and gives the leader reasonable protection at a few points where it would NOT be advisable to fall. Advising otherwise may be a disservice to people not as comfortable at the grade or as familiar with the area.
Also, the topo Geir provides is excellent. Although, my partner and I disagreed with the "scary clip" comment indicated on the topo. It appears to say "scary clip" next to the first bolt on the third pitch, whereas my partner and I both agreed the only scary clip on the route was clipping the last bolt on the first. This may be an oversight in the topo, or perhaps we're just whiny bitches.
By Bill Lawry From: New Mexico Feb 24, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
I agree with Zeke regarding the P3/P1 "scary clip" conundrum.
hahaha! well, don't worry about whining, you guys. as far as the scary clips go, they are just my opinion. i'll check out that first pitch clip again next time i'm up there. be safe and have fun out there! :)
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 15, 2010 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b PG13
a fairly burly start to my cochise experience- i found this route to be more on the .10+ side of .10a, but to each his own. fairly sustained climbing- especially if you dont drift left or right enough (as i discovered on the 4th pitch).
the fifth pitch, though, no matter how you do those moves is .10+ imho.
no rack needed- its casual, never run out enough to make you nervous.
the last pitch was weird- got lost in the bolts, ended up finishing left of the route, we think, as i wasnt up for another mystery .10+ slab move.
By John Hayes From: Bend, OR Dec 18, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
John Rich and I did this route last week without a rack. Although I've done the route a number of times, I forgot that there are some pretty sporty sections if you don't have any pro. The clip of the last bolt on the first pitch is done 30'-40' out and it's a bit of tricky clip. Once you figure it out, it isn't that hard but it would be a nasty fall if you screw up. A small rack of a few medium to small friends would fix almost all of the runouts. Peacemaker is really a classic with superb climbing in a great position. Every pitch is thoughtful; though most of it seems like 5.10a to me.
By Mike From: Phoenix Dec 19, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
It has been awhile, but I don't remember bringing or needing gear to supplement the bolts. I guess a few finger-ish pieces wouldn't hurt though.
The first time I did this we arrived at the base shortly after noon, simul-climbed it as a party of 3 in a couple hours, and were back at camp well before dark. What a great day on an awesome piece of stone!
Hah. To the gathering fray over gear/no gear, I'll add that if you are cool simul climbing Peacemaker like Mike here, then definitely don't bring extra gear. It's true the cruxes are all well protected, but, being more in that range, I still think the average 5.10 leader will want some supplementary pro. But if you got the head for it, disregard my continued whining - if you haven't the head for it, well, it's gonna suck.
By Alex McIntyre From: Tucson, AZ Jan 14, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
I was at Sheepshead New Year's Day after the massive winter storm- there was snow EVERYWHERE! All of the routes on Sheepshead that we saw were encased in snow and ice. The ice had melted by the next day and it appeared dry but there was water running down the weird moves into the chimney and up to the first pitch belay stance.
By Tim Hadfield From: Steamboat Springs, Co Feb 1, 2011 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
Can't believe how much fun this route is! Well bolted, great topo (thanks Geir), and giggly fun movement. We did place a total of 4 finger sized pieces. Two at the top of the first pitch and two higher up on the route. I probably could have gotten away with just one piece at the top of the first pitch, but hey, I like to place gear. I am looking forward to doing more on the Sheepshead...
A pretty contrived route. I found myself consistently annoyed that the natural line wasn't anywhere close to the bolts, especially on the first pitch. Not sure why it sees the traffic it does, other than the fact it's so closely bolted.
By Hendrixson Administrator From: Tucson, AZ Mar 23, 2014 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
The reason pitch 6 ends where it does is likely an artifact of rope length at the time. A 50m rope, which is just over 160ft, would not have reached the final anchors.
By Nate Young From: Phoenix Mar 27, 2014 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
I found this route was a pretty good time. We initially were going to climb Absinthe of Mallet to the left about 50 feet of the start of this route, but it was a little hot int he sun so we decided against it and went with the mainly sport route.
The approach took us about 1.5 hours total, with some breaks. Don't let anyone fool you, the hill to the base is a killer if you are a desk jockey during the week like I am.
It took us (2 people) almost 6 hours total to do the full 6 pitches, with a few breaks in between. The 4th pitch is definitely the most difficult part of the route, above the 5.10a roof. I'm not the greatest at slab and found this part of the route the most difficult for me. The 6th pitch, as you climb the left facing corner, was kind of scary because the bolt line was so far to the right that you had to stand on some pretty small pebbles about 10 feet above the draw to clip.
The 5.10a/b sections on the 2nd and 4th pithes are REALLY fun once you figure out the sequences. The bolts are spaced well enough that it doesn't feel runout in many areas. Like a few other people have said, the bolt line is completely off the natural route of the wall in many places. A number of bolts on every pitch were a real stretch to clip from good stances, but they were doable.
I would recommend bringing some gear to protect a few places, but if you are used to some Cochise runouts, it won't be a big deal. The gear we used was as follows:
1st Pitch: .5 Cam between the slab to face transition 2nd Pitch: .4 Cam & smallest BD nut. 3rd Pitch: .5 Cam in the upper flake area 4th Pitch: No Gear 5th Pitch: 2 Cam above 5.10a roof 6th Pitch: .5 Cam & 2 Cam, on the upper part of the pitch below the belay bolts.