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No Money Down (Left)
Routes Sorted
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Coveted, The T 
Dung Beetle S 
Easy Terms S 
False Modesty S 
Mr. Popular S 
No Money Down S 
Payment Plan, The S 
Repossession S 
Rose Garden S 
Student Loan S 
Thou Shalt Not Covet S 
Truth in Advertising S 

The Payment Plan 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dave Quinn, June 2004
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: warning the holds get sharp up there...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A newish route to the left of No Money Down... Pretty fun really but not my style... If you like sharp, powerful, bouldery climbing dig in...

Climb the moderate start up a juggy vertical face that is much like the start of No Money Down... The big difference between this climb and that one is that once you get to the roof this crux is about V5 rather than the V1 or V2 that gets you to the chains on No Money Down (5.10c)... A good jug before the roof lets you rest a little (though you might not need it) before pulling in to some powerful moves out a roof and a rounded bulge... The holds are sharp and keeping your feet on requires some core strength... There looks to be many options for a sequence through the crux... I've even heard that a knee bar is possible (but i havent found it), however you get it done, have fun with it...

I use an undercling left on the roof, then a pocket with a thumb catch right, to a pretty good but very sharp left hand hold and a big move with a right leg drop-knee to a crimp before getting my hands over the top via a couple smaller moves... Mantel to the ledge and clip the chains...

Location 

Next line left of No Money Down...

Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips...


Photos of The Payment Plan Slideshow Add Photo
Me falling off of Payment Plan on the onsight atte...
Me falling off of Payment Plan on the onsight atte...
One more beta photo... left hand on a good incut t...
One more beta photo... left hand on a good incut t...
This is the beginning of the crux... left hand und...
This is the beginning of the crux... left hand und...
This might be the funniest face I've made while cl...
This might be the funniest face I've made while cl...
Zagy cleaning in a sea of gold
Zagy cleaning in a sea of gold

Comments on The Payment Plan Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Mar 11, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I like this route but I never knew the name. The crux sequence is super hard and one of the bolts I find pretty hard to clip, but other than that this route is enjoyable.

I never used the knee bar for anything more than theory, and I think you need to be pretty strong to do anything but dyno through the crux sequence.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 30, 2008

So this route is powerful which isn't my strength so it was really hard for me... i just had a block on it... but i grew to like it a lot even though at first i wasn't crazy about it... i really needed to work out ever part of my sequence perfectly before it would go... i now have the perfect sequence for me and if it wasn't so damn sharp I'd do it again soon...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 17, 2009

is this just right of repo?
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 18, 2009

Yea, it's the bolted line between Repossession and No Money Down
By Christina Callaghan
May 16, 2010

FA Dave Quinn June 2004
By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Boulder problem def constitutes V5, so how would that be 12a? 12b seemed very appropriate for this boulder/route.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 14, 2010

i did enter it as 12b but others have voted it as 12a so the consensus was lowered...