A south facing face climb next to a crack-corner. The crack-corner can be led on gear. The bolted line stays on the face right of the crack and only uses the crack at the crux near the top. Not using the crack-corner for the crux involves a tricky sequence of crimps and pushes the grade up a notch.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. May be top-roped from either First Move or Born Ready.
|By Jorge Achata|
From: Lima, Peru
Mar 10, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Heading left past the last bolt towards the roof crack is not bad, but a fall conjures some awesome swinging. Not that you can do much about it while falling, but watch for rope tangles. Heading straight up is definitely harder. I heard Scott Jones calling it "the hardest move in the mountain." It should be a clean fall if you can't make it though, so it's worth a try!