|622 page views|
This is a great mixed climb that requires endurance stemming/chimneying and the ability to crank on first-digit locks.
Begin immediately right of Tofu Crack and head up a wide crack to the top of a large block. Climb up sandy rock to a ledge below the business: A long, narrowing finger crack on the right and an obtuse corner on the left. Head up this with increasing difficulty to a bolt, then bust some creative moves past a difficult second clip, and finally some pumpy but secure locks to the anchor.
0.5 Camalots down to purple TCU's/blue Aliens. A #2 and/or #4 Camalot with a long sling is useful for the start.
|Comments on The Pastafarian
|By Ol' Toby|
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Hard stemming and thin gear before the bolts. Lots of thin stuff, green alien for the right crack or purple tcu/blue alien for the left crack. A tricky sequence between the bolts leads to a big crank at the finish. Stout!