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South Early Winters Spire
Select Route:
Direct East Buttress 
Hitchhiker, The 
Northwest Face 
Passenger, The 
South Arete 
Southwest Couloir 
SW Rib 

The Passenger 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: July through early Sept
Page Views: 2,271
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Oct 30, 2009
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Description 

The Passenger is one of the best rock climbs in the Cascades. It is a long grade III or short grade IV, usually done in 7-8 pitches on flawless rock.

p1 -5.10D (160 feet)
Double Cracks right from the ground. Climb toward a massive roof and go left under roof clipping one bolt. Crux moves come before and after the roof. Belay is bolted.

P2. 5.11bish. 140'ish
Climb mellow cracks up the face above you to a roof. Roof has bolt on it. Pull roof through to the right via strange flares and campus moves. The crack above the roof has some grass and flares.
Continue up the corner past a tree and larger, but much easier roof (5.9).

P3. 5.11- (80 feet) Amazing sustained finger crack to a roof/slot. Belay off bolts on left.

P4. 5.11+ (120 feet) Move left and down slightly past two bolts, slab crux, then clip 3rd bolt. Another easier runout above the 3rd bolt takes you straight up past a few more bolts to a roof. Face moves past a bolt is the route's crux, and good holds soon appear. Belay here or keep climbing right, to climb eventually up and right from the belay.

Move right, looking for a high bolt way up inside this A-Frame roof/chimney to your right. Clip bolt and move right. Step up to a small stance with dead tree and belay.

P5 5.10C 150+ feet.
Move up and right from the belay to a crack, or move up the bombay chimney above. Soon, step back left and up into 5.10 corner and splitter. Belay above tree.

P6 5.10c

Follow thin-hand crack, becoming left-leaning ramp and corner. Awkward and you feel like you will fall out to the left. Also possible to go more straight up, via a wider crack. When possible, traverse straight left for ~30' on a rail, to reach a belay in some greenery.

p7 - 5.7 - Follow splitters and blocks up and left to the topout on the South Arete.


Location 

From the South Arete of the spire, head down and right (NE) along the base, cross the first gully, and begin at double cracks near a fir tree. Easy to leave packs and shoes hanging in a tree at the South Arete, the standard descent for this peak.


Protection 

Doubles from thin finger cams to #2 camlot. One #3 camalot. One set of nuts.



Photos of The Passenger Slideshow Add Photo
pitch 6 or so. The best of the climb maybe.
pitch 6 or so. The best of the climb maybe.
p1
p1
This is maybe 5-10 minutes east from the start of the south arete
This is maybe 5-10 minutes east from the start of ...
bolted roof on p2
bolted roof on p2
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