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Two hard problems V6 and V10 and a possible project on some of the best granite in the area. The face that the problems are on has a bunch of seams criss crossing the face which sometimes open up enough to accept fingers. Sits in an alcove and is thus some what sheltered from the wind. Pretty close to the trail.
Start up the mountain bike trail. As the trail turns to the left stay straight through the wilderness boundary and into a wash. After about 150 yards in the wash youwill come to a large open area with a trail that cuts across the wash. Head to the left on the trail until you come to a very nice round juniper, like a 15' sphere, on the left, uphill side of the trail. Just past this tree you will see the face of the boulder that the problems are on and a trail leading up to it maybe a hundred feet. Approach takes less than 10 minutes.
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The 10 V10 7C+ Boulder, 15'
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Cool moves across the face to an arete and up. More beta intensive than the harder problem, it took Chis and I more tries to do this than The 10, but once we figured out the beta we each did it on our subsequent attempt.Make the same first shouldery move out right to a good edge. Then cross under to a good sidepull and a small move to a good edge. Get your feet situated and cross over to a sidepull. Roll out of this to some badness on the blunt arete. Walk your feet through and get a right heal ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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