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The Parthenos

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Cithaeron T 

The Parthenos  


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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: CrimperE6 on Oct 30, 2012
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Description 

the climbing is generally steep and intimidating, but always on excellent rock and usually with good protection .
The Parthenos presents a large concave face that bristles with overhangs in its upper half and has an impressive hanging corner high in its left flank. A smaller, hidden, wall bounds the cliff to the north. The routes are non tidal.

Getting There 

The north side of Grand Falls Zawn forms a broad grassy spur (taken by the original descent): this is approximately 75 metres south of Threequarter Wall and it is terminated by a steep orange face with a small offshore rock island, St Mark's Stone, opposite.

the routes on the main face are reached by abseiling down its right-hand side from good block belays 10 metres back from the cliff-top. A 60-metre abseil reaches a slim brown ledge system that extends leftwards beneath the main face. "Alternatively, approach as for Grand Falls Zawn by descending the fern-covered slope and unstable ridge (fixed rope advised) before traversing north along ledges, 9 metres above sea level, to the starts of the first two routes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.5 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Parthenos
cithaeron

Cithaeron 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : The Parthenos
The climbing is sustained, but with a low technical threshold, and combined with some inspirational route finding provides a memorable experience.Start below a beckoning flake above the left-hand end of the ledge-system. Climb the slab to reach the flake and follow it, with escalating difficulty, to its end. Pull through a bulge and move up into a scoop guarded by a black fang of rock. Pass the fang to its right into a second scoop and exit steeply leftwards to a black block (peg). Pull round th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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