the climbing is generally steep and intimidating, but always on excellent rock and usually with good protection .
The Parthenos presents a large concave face that bristles with overhangs in its upper half and has an impressive hanging corner high in its left flank. A smaller, hidden, wall bounds the cliff to the north. The routes are non tidal.
The north side of Grand Falls Zawn forms a broad grassy spur (taken by the original descent): this is approximately 75 metres south of Threequarter Wall and it is terminated by a steep orange face with a small offshore rock island, St Mark's Stone, opposite.
the routes on the main face are reached by abseiling down its right-hand side from good block belays 10 metres back from the cliff-top. A 60-metre abseil reaches a slim brown ledge system that extends leftwards beneath the main face. "Alternatively, approach as for Grand Falls Zawn by descending the fern-covered slope and unstable ridge (fixed rope advised) before traversing north along ledges, 9 metres above sea level, to the starts of the first two routes.
Climbing Season For the England area.
Weather station 13.5 miles from here
1 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Parthenos
Cithaeron 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Europe
: United Kingdom
: ... : The Parthenos
The climbing is sustained, but with a low technical threshold, and combined with some inspirational route finding provides a memorable experience.Start below a beckoning flake above the left-hand end of the ledge-system. Climb the slab to reach the flake and follow it, with escalating difficulty, to its end. Pull through a bulge and move up into a scoop guarded by a black fang of rock. Pass the fang to its right into a second scoop and exit steeply leftwards to a black block (peg). Pull round th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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