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The Pansy - Direct 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Cory on May 16, 2012
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Chris stemming around the roof on Pansy Direct. Y...
Seasonal Raptor Closures.


This route climbs the double dihedral and roof directly below the anchors for The Pansy, merging with it at the 3rd bolt. This adds some fun jamming and tricky stemming, you get to bypass the rather easy and boring start of the original Pansy, and you still get to climb the Pansy's crux. Highly recommended!

Start in the dihedral using a nice handcrack on the right until you reach the roof. Pull the roof using finger locks and smeary stemming.

After the fun climbing up to and over the roof, climb some loose terrain without protection until you reach the 3rd bolt of The Pansy. Finish with the tough (interesting) part of The Pansy.


Starts directly below the anchors for The Pansy.


Hand size gear for the dihedral, small stuff to protect the roof, and two bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of The Pansy - Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Chris at the third bolt of The Pansy, after taking the more adventurous direct start.
Chris at the third bolt of The Pansy, after taking...
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