Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Druid
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Admiral Throckmorton S 
Bron- yr-aur T 
Corporal Punishment S 
Crap Weasel S 
Druid Roof 
Grips of Wrath, The S 
In Lightning S 
Jack the Slipper S 
Lights Out S 
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 
Lord Fowelsbain S 
Multi roof ???? S 
No Name T,S 
Of Mice and Men T,S 
Paganizer, The S 
Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Paganizer 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jack The Slipper (Doug Lantz, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Diane Vetter, '91) The Pagan Sport Finish (Mike Strassman, Scott Ayers, '93)
Season: Morning Shade Until 11am
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Hendrixson on Jun 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Clifford Rylands demonstrating the roof sequence: ...

Description 

While technically a mixture of two lines, Jack The Slipper and the sport variation of The Pagan, this route makes for a pleasant clip-up.

Climb Jack The Slipper to the chains. Instead of lowering clip a shoulder length sling to the right chain and move right under the roof. This is the sport variation of The Pagan. Clip a half-yanked bolt that spins (as of June 2012) and pull the roof. Continue straight up moderate jugs to the anchors.

Since the climbing is 5.9 other than the roof, which is 5.11, the line is not consistent at the grade. It is consistent in quality however.


Location 

This route is on the southwest (left) face of the Druid. It is the first bolted line to the right of the large roof and near the bottom of the slope.


Protection 

Approximately 12 bolts to chains. Two notes as of June 2012:

The bolt below the roof is half-pulled and the hanger spins. It has been like this for quite some time and held our falls. That does not mean that it will continue catch climbers forever though. This bolt is under outward pressure from the roof above. The tension on this bolt and rope drag above would be lessened by using a shoulder length sling. That said it is in the middle of the crux sequence and above a small ledge so a short draw provides piece of mind.

The anchors consist of two unequalized bolts, the lower of which has a rap ring. There is currently a quickdraw equalizing the anchors. We left the quickdraw in place. A more permanent solution would be a chain.



Photos of The Paganizer Slideshow Add Photo
Clifford Rylands demonstrating the roof sequence: part 1.
Clifford Rylands demonstrating the roof sequence: ...
Comments on The Paganizer Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -