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 ADVANCED
The Fin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Horse T 
Dorsal Fin, The T 
Fin Arete, The T 
Fins and Needles T 
Fish For Brains S 
Gills, The T 
Hand Drills Suck! T 
Lateral Fin, The T 
Other Intentions T 
Pabst Schmear, The S 
Ventral Fin, The T 
Wave of Mutilation, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Pabst Schmear 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: some dudes
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Nov 25, 2012

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Description 

This is the first route protected entirely with glue in's in Little Cottonwood Canyon. This route is also at the top of the gulley to the west of Lizard Head Buttress and directly below "The Gills." This route is left of "Fish For Brains" and about 30 feet above the trees. You need to scramble fifth class cracks to get to the base of this route. You will recognize this as a clean slab with glue in protection. Don't mistake this its a glue-in sporty 5.12 neighbor to the east. There is one fixed piton on this route. The crux of this great pitch is avoiding hucking your carcass into the wide crack to the left instead of staying on the slab and charging for the anchors.

Location 

At the top of the gulley below the fin

Protection 

All Draws, one rope.


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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 25, 2012

Location photos to come