Mountain Project: Climbing Northern Arizona

The Overlook is pretty much just that, as it overlooks everything from the top of Oak Creek Canyon. Long basalt columns encircle the top of this area, and the result is a plethora of moderate climbs. The normal procedure is to rig a separate rap line from a solid tree on the rim, rap in, then climb back out. Area classics include Angel's Delight (5.7), Morning's Mourning (5.8), Isaiah (5.9) and the Trinity Cracks (5.10), but most all of the routes are enjoyable to some degree. The Overlook is basically a kinder, more gentle version of Paradise Forks.

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.

Getting There

From Flagstaff, The Overlook can be reached by driving south on highway 89A. At the top of the canyon, just before the switchbacks begin is the Overlook itself on the east side of the hwy.

You can park in the paved lot, but if you plan on staying later than 4:30 in the afternoon, you will want to park across the Hwy, as they lock the Overlook gates at that time. It is not uncommon to hear of people getting locked in so plan accordingly.

There are restrooms and water available during hours of operation.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Overlook:

Gingerbread 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Angel's Delight 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Syzygy 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Red Wagon 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Mint Jam 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Morning's Mourning 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Obediah 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Answered Prayers 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

CrackUp 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet

Isaiah 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Amateur Hour 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Devil's Deed 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Orange Out Direct 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Magumba's Corner 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Sparky And The Firedog 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet

Left Trinity Crack 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Trinity Roofs 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Middle Trinity Crack 5.10b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Right Trinity Crack 5.10b/c Trad, 80 feet

Not Fade Away AKA The Shining 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch

Comments on The Overlook

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 2, 2013

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 1, 2007

I have only climbed here one day, however, on that day I had three separate encounters with tarantulas on three different routes, each time I was on lead. Creeps me out, give me NH black flies or WV snakes anyday.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 22, 2007

I didn't hurt them, no fear.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Jun 25, 2008

The locals are smart enough to avoid this place on summer mornings, but if you're road tripping and brave it anyway, bring twice as much water as you think you might need. The amount of heat generated by the dark rock is hard to exaggerate.

Last Saturday I drank twice as much as I would have on Mt Lemmon in similar conditions.

By Brigette
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jul 6, 2009

When we were at Isaiah on Sunday, some idiot started throwing rocks off the top of the cliff. One whizzed past my climber as he was lowering off, and another landed right at the base of the Trinity Cracks. I'm really glad my father and daughter had already hiked back up to the top. I'd highly recommend wearing a helmet at all times.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 5, 2010

Anybody know of any stories of marathon days at the overlook? In the karabin foldout, it says he's toprope-soloed 25 routes in 5 hours (if my memory serves me) - how about other records? all 80 or so routes in a day? any trip reports out there?

By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2011

anyone climbed george's niche, immediately right of duck soup? karabin fold-out shows it as 5.8, going right up the overhanging wide crack into a burly off-width. wondering if this route merits a (+)? and that's even if you cheat down low and come in from the right... curious of other's thoughts.

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 6, 2011

@Jmo-Yes, I've done George's niche-It's a great burly offwidth. My personal opinion is that it is a 5.9, but that's just me. I think I had a six on that route and walked it a bit. Or maybe two and leap frogged them. Anyway, really fun & hard route. I remember the moves off the ground being tricky, too. But pro it with a 5 and you don't need to cheat, just try it a couple times/it'll come together.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Hey ya'll just wanted to let you know I sorted the routes, so that feature should help folks new to the area if this is your only source.

By adrea
Jun 12, 2012

Please be careful not to accidentally kick the loose rocks off when you are at the top of these climbs. There are a lot of people down below.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 2, 2013

ya sure it wasn't a king snake?

red and yellow kills a fellow? red and black safe for Jack?

By Colin Cox
May 2, 2013

Good question Darren. KC....can you confirm this distinction? I've seen lots of king snakes up this high but never a coral snake. I like snakes so I have a genuine curiosity about the certainty of this claim. KC, not knowing how familiar you are with Arizona snakes, I'm not sure if this claim is reliable. Did you make the distinction Darren mentioned when you saw the snake at the Overlook?

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The Overlook

Description

Getting There

The Classics