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The Overlook

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Redrum AK A Jungleland 
Agent Orange 
Alley Oop 
Amateur Hour 
Amputation 
Angel's Delight 
Answered Prayers 
Applesticks 
Blunderbuss 
Burger King 
Burnt Buns 
Bush Rush 
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner 
Circus Circus 
Cloudwalk 
Constant Gardener  
CrackUp 
Devil's Deed 
Direct Left 
Duck Soup 
Dugald's Right 
Dugald's Route 
Dyzygy 
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up 
Fresh Air 
Gambit 
George's Niche 
Gingerbread 
Gridle, The 
Griffo 
Grunt'N'Dangle 
Hand Jive 
Hard Rain 
Head Cheese 
Hidden Hollow 
Horn, The 
I've Always Been Crazy 
Isaiah 
Jelly Roll 
Left Trinity Crack 
Magical Mystery Tour 
Magumba's Corner 
Mellow Yellow 
Microtome 
Middle Trinity Crack 
Mint Jam 
Mint Julep 
Morning After 
Morning's Mourning 
Nickle Slot 
Normally 3 Rurps 
Normally Urgent 
Not Fade Away AKA The Shining 
Obediah 
Obscurity 
Orange Julius 
Orange Out Direct 
PegLeg I, II 
Pensativa 
Piddley Shit 
Red Wagon 
Right Trinity Crack 
Satisfaction Guaranteed 
Sexual Deviations 
Sin Ropa 
Sintisa 
Sneak Preview 
Sparky And The Firedog 
Stalemate 
Stonegate 
Swedish Britfast Crack 
Syzygy 
Trinity Arete 
Trinity Roofs 
Wager Crack 
Wanderlust 

The Overlook 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.0302, -111.7326 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 47,727
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 19, 2006
Good Page?1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
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Chance of Rain
64° | 35°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
62° | 37°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
68° | 41°
Partly Cloudy
73° | 43°
Partly Cloudy
71° | 41°
Paul on the Left Trinity. Photo by Hillary Davis 2...
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Overlook is a firmly established traditional crag perched high above Oak Creek Canyon just south of Flagstaff. Long broken basalt columns line the rim of this area, and the result is a plethora of moderate trad climbs. Folks began exploring these cliffs in the late 1960s but it wasn't until the middle 70s that it started to resemble the crag we know today. And while the obvious loose blocks were trundled during the FAs, these routes were cleaned by the hands of a thousand ascents, and not by arm and hammer. Pulling on hollow blocks is the norm, though always check them first. The ledgy nature of the climbing here makes it a great place to learn the ropes, but not a good place to fall. The normal procedure is to rig a separate rap line from a gear anchor or solid tree on the rim, rap in, then climb back out. However, there is a trail on top of the far east side of the wall which leads down to the base. rappelling is optional

If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

Area classics include Angel's Delight (5.7), Syzygy (5.8), Morning's Mourning (5.8), Isaiah (5.9), Orange Out Direct (5.9), Answered Prayers (5.9), Sparky the Fire Dog (5.10-) and the Trinity Cracks (5.10).

A standard rack of doubles from #.3 through #3.5 and a single set of wires will get you up almost everything here, though smaller and larger pieces are demanded on certain routes, and extra hand sized pieces can be nice.

The Overlook is basically a kinder, more gentle version of Paradise Forks and has a reputation for drying up quicker than the Forks during the monsoons. The wall faces south east and gets plenty of morning sun, then rolls into the shade around 2:00 in the afternoon.

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.


Getting There 

From Flagstaff, The Overlook can be reached by driving south on highway 89A. At the top of the canyon, just before the switchbacks begin is the Overlook itself on the east side of the hwy.

You can park in the paved lot, but if you plan on staying later than 4:30 in the afternoon, you will want to park across the Hwy, as they lock the Overlook gates at that time. It is not uncommon to hear of people getting locked in so plan accordingly.

There are restrooms and water available during hours of operation.


76 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',39],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',8],['5.8',15],['5.9',17],['5.10',27],['5.11',5],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Overlook:
Gingerbread   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
Angel's Delight   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mint Jam   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Syzygy   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Morning's Mourning   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
CrackUp   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Answered Prayers   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Obediah   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Devil's Deed   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Amateur Hour   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Orange Out Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Isaiah   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Magumba's Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Sparky And The Firedog   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Left Trinity Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Direct Left   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Trinity Roofs   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Right Trinity Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 80'   
Middle Trinity Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Not Fade Away AKA The Shining   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in The Overlook

Featured Route For The Overlook
I'm not sure where the 10a and 11 exit routes to left go, but I'm pretty sure this is the 5.9 hands exit.  Fun.

Trinity Roofs 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Overlook
I recall three separate exits out the roofs. The right hand one is how most parties exit the Trinities.Then there's the obvious larger roof that is gained by climbing the obvious corner left of the cracks. I recall a bit of an exposed sequence.Then there's the less obvious line up between the above two lines. I recall this being my favorite exit....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For The Overlook
Photos of The Overlook Slideshow Add Photo
Who needs Camalots?! One of Dusty Teal's wooden wedges removed from the Trinity Cracks, circa early 70's.
Who needs Camalots?! One of Dusty Teal's wooden we...
trinity roof
trinity roof
View of Orange Out wall with known routes
BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Ladd Raine finishing up one of the shorter cracks at The Overlook. <br /> <br />Shortly after this picture was taken my second encountered a big Tarantula and scared herself silly.
Ladd Raine finishing up one of the shorter cracks ...
Ladd Raine trying to stay out of the sun just left of the Trinity Cracks.
Ladd Raine trying to stay out of the sun just left...
beautiful view from the cliff top
beautiful view from the cliff top
Racked up at the Overlook
Racked up at the Overlook
Comments on The Overlook Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2013
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 1, 2007

I have only climbed here one day, however, on that day I had three separate encounters with tarantulas on three different routes, each time I was on lead. Creeps me out, give me NH black flies or WV snakes anyday.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 22, 2007

I didn't hurt them, no fear.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 25, 2008

The locals are smart enough to avoid this place on summer mornings, but if you're road tripping and brave it anyway, bring twice as much water as you think you might need. The amount of heat generated by the dark rock is hard to exaggerate.

Last Saturday I drank twice as much as I would have on Mt Lemmon in similar conditions.

By Brigette
From: Vancouver, WA
Jul 6, 2009

When we were at Isaiah on Sunday, some idiot started throwing rocks off the top of the cliff. One whizzed past my climber as he was lowering off, and another landed right at the base of the Trinity Cracks. I'm really glad my father and daughter had already hiked back up to the top. I'd highly recommend wearing a helmet at all times.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 5, 2010

Anybody know of any stories of marathon days at the overlook? In the karabin foldout, it says he's toprope-soloed 25 routes in 5 hours (if my memory serves me) - how about other records? all 80 or so routes in a day? any trip reports out there?

By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 16, 2011

anyone climbed george's niche, immediately right of duck soup? karabin fold-out shows it as 5.8, going right up the overhanging wide crack into a burly off-width. wondering if this route merits a (+)? and that's even if you cheat down low and come in from the right... curious of other's thoughts.

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 6, 2011

@Jmo-Yes, I've done George's niche-It's a great burly offwidth. My personal opinion is that it is a 5.9, but that's just me. I think I had a six on that route and walked it a bit. Or maybe two and leap frogged them. Anyway, really fun & hard route. I remember the moves off the ground being tricky, too. But pro it with a 5 and you don't need to cheat, just try it a couple times/it'll come together.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Hey ya'll just wanted to let you know I sorted the routes, so that feature should help folks new to the area if this is your only source.

By adrea
Jun 12, 2012

Please be careful not to accidentally kick the loose rocks off when you are at the top of these climbs. There are a lot of people down below.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 2, 2013

ya sure it wasn't a king snake?

red and yellow kills a fellow? red and black safe for Jack?

By Colin Cox
May 2, 2013

Good question Darren. KC....can you confirm this distinction? I've seen lots of king snakes up this high but never a coral snake. I like snakes so I have a genuine curiosity about the certainty of this claim. KC, not knowing how familiar you are with Arizona snakes, I'm not sure if this claim is reliable. Did you make the distinction Darren mentioned when you saw the snake at the Overlook?

By PeterNSteinmetz
Jun 1, 2013

Can someone confirm what the restriction means here. The text above says past the area of Red Wagon. Just that mean to the left or right of Red Wagon when looking at the cliff?

thanks,
Peter

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 2, 2013

The restricted area is to the climber's left of Red Wagon. It's pretty obvious when you are down there as well cause the trail at the base essentially ends at the Trinities.

By BenZH
From: Flagstaff AZ
Aug 10, 2013

While attempting to climb orange out direct last night I was swarmed by hornets while placing a nut. Beware of that. I didn't manage to clip in and my whole set of nuts are hanging on the route (20-25 ft. up) while I took cover on a nearby jug.

By Erik S
Aug 19, 2013

I was at the Overlook yesterday and left a blue BD number 3 cam at the topout of Isaiah as we were getting downpoured on. If you find it It would be awesome if i could somehow get it back..

By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 3, 2013

it is definitely wasp season at the overlook. be very careful they are highly active right now and have nest on most routes or close to most routes at least the 3 we attempted. Obediah was climbable douglads right was not. 2 nest right at the 3/4 mark of the climb