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The Overlook

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Redrum AK A Jungleland T 
Agent Orange T 
Alley Oop T 
Amateur Hour T 
Amputation T 
Angel's Delight T 
Answered Prayers T 
Applesticks T 
Blunderbuss T 
Burger King T 
Burnt Buns T 
Bush Rush T 
Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 
Circus Circus T 
Cloudwalk T 
Constant Gardener  T,TR 
CrackUp T 
Devil's Deed T 
Direct Left T 
Duck Soup T 
Dugald's Right T 
Dugald's Route T 
Dyzygy T 
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 
Fresh Air T 
Gambit T 
George's Niche T 
Gingerbread T,TR 
Gridle, The T 
Griffo T 
Grunt'N'Dangle T 
Hand Jive T 
Hard Rain T 
Head Cheese T 
Hidden Hollow T 
Horn, The T 
I've Always Been Crazy T 
Isaiah T 
Jelly Roll T 
Left Trinity Crack T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Magumba's Corner T 
Mellow Yellow T 
Microtome T 
Middle Trinity Crack T 
Mint Jam T 
Mint Julep T 
Morning After T 
Morning's Mourning T 
Nickle Slot T 
Normally 3 Rurps T 
Normally Urgent T 
Not Fade Away AKA The Shining T 
Obediah T 
Obscurity T 
Orange Julius T 
Orange Out Direct T 
PegLeg I, II T 
Pensativa T 
Piddley Shit T 
Red Wagon T 
Right Trinity Crack T 
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 
Sexual Deviations T 
Sin Ropa T 
Sintisa T 
Sneak Preview T 
Sparky And The Firedog T 
Stalemate T 
Stonegate T 
Swedish Britfast Crack T 
Syzygy T 
Too Proud to Geek T 
Trinity Arete TR 
Trinity Roofs T 
Wager Crack T 
Wanderlust T 

The Overlook 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 35.0302, -111.7326 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,123
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 19, 2006
Forecast:
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Paul on the Left Trinity. Photo by Hillary Davis 2...
Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Overlook is a firmly established traditional crag perched high above Oak Creek Canyon just south of Flagstaff. Long broken basalt columns line the rim of this area, and the result is a plethora of moderate trad climbs. Folks began exploring these cliffs in the late 1960s but it wasn't until the middle 70s that it started to resemble the crag we know today. And while the obvious loose blocks were trundled during the FAs, these routes were cleaned by the hands of a thousand ascents, and not by arm and hammer. Pulling on hollow blocks is the norm, though always check them first. The ledgy nature of the climbing here makes it a great place to learn the ropes, but not a good place to fall. The normal procedure is to rig a separate rap line from a gear anchor or solid tree on the rim, rap in, then climb back out. However, there is a trail on top of the far east side of the wall which leads down to the base. rappelling is optional

If trees are used for an all day rap line, please pad the tree, and then place a piece of gear near the edge of the cliff to take the full load of the rappel, leaving just enough slack in the line so the tree is never directly loaded. This way you don't have to have a full bombproof trad anchor, just a piece or two and the tree simply offers you an ultimate back up, without being affected.

Area classics include Angel's Delight (5.7), Syzygy (5.8), Morning's Mourning (5.8), Isaiah (5.9), Orange Out Direct (5.9), Answered Prayers (5.9), Sparky the Fire Dog (5.10-) and the Trinity Cracks (5.10).

A standard rack of doubles from #.3 through #3.5 and a single set of wires will get you up almost everything here, though smaller and larger pieces are demanded on certain routes, and extra hand sized pieces can be nice.

The Overlook is basically a kinder, more gentle version of Paradise Forks and has a reputation for drying up quicker than the Forks during the monsoons. The wall faces south east and gets plenty of morning sun, then rolls into the shade around 2:00 in the afternoon.

ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.


Getting There 

From Flagstaff, The Overlook can be reached by driving south on highway 89A. At the top of the canyon, just before the switchbacks begin is the Overlook itself on the east side of the hwy.

You can park in the paved lot, but if you plan on staying later than 4:30 in the afternoon, you will want to park across the Hwy, as they lock the Overlook gates at that time. It is not uncommon to hear of people getting locked in so plan accordingly.

There are restrooms and water available during hours of operation.


Climbing Season


77 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',38],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',8],['5.8',15],['5.9',17],['5.10',27],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Overlook:
Gingerbread   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   
Angel's Delight   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Syzygy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mint Jam   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Morning's Mourning   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Obediah   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Answered Prayers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Devil's Deed   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Orange Out Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Amateur Hour   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Isaiah   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Magumba's Corner   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Left Trinity Crack   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Sparky And The Firedog   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Trinity Roofs   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Middle Trinity Crack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Direct Left   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Right Trinity Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   
Redrum AKA Jungleland   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Not Fade Away AKA The Shining   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in The Overlook

Featured Route For The Overlook
"Direct Left", most easily accessed from Grunt'N'Dangle.

Direct Left 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : The Overlook
Great route. Easier than it looks!...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of The Overlook Slideshow Add Photo
Who needs Camalots?! One of Dusty Teal's wooden wedges removed from the Trinity Cracks, circa early 70's.
Who needs Camalots?! One of Dusty Teal's wooden we...
trinity roof
trinity roof
View of Orange Out wall with known routes
BETA PHOTO: View of Orange Out wall with known routes
Racked up at the Overlook
Racked up at the Overlook
Ladd Raine trying to stay out of the sun just left of the Trinity Cracks.
Ladd Raine trying to stay out of the sun just left...
beautiful view from the cliff top
beautiful view from the cliff top
Ladd Raine finishing up one of the shorter cracks at The Overlook. <br /> <br />Shortly after this picture was taken my second encountered a big Tarantula and scared herself silly.
Ladd Raine finishing up one of the shorter cracks ...
The Overlook
The Overlook
Comments on The Overlook Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2013
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 1, 2007

I have only climbed here one day, however, on that day I had three separate encounters with tarantulas on three different routes, each time I was on lead. Creeps me out, give me NH black flies or WV snakes anyday.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 22, 2007

I didn't hurt them, no fear.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 25, 2008

The locals are smart enough to avoid this place on summer mornings, but if you're road tripping and brave it anyway, bring twice as much water as you think you might need. The amount of heat generated by the dark rock is hard to exaggerate.

Last Saturday I drank twice as much as I would have on Mt Lemmon in similar conditions.

By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 6, 2009

When we were at Isaiah on Sunday, some idiot started throwing rocks off the top of the cliff. One whizzed past my climber as he was lowering off, and another landed right at the base of the Trinity Cracks. I'm really glad my father and daughter had already hiked back up to the top. I'd highly recommend wearing a helmet at all times.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 5, 2010

Anybody know of any stories of marathon days at the overlook? In the karabin foldout, it says he's toprope-soloed 25 routes in 5 hours (if my memory serves me) - how about other records? all 80 or so routes in a day? any trip reports out there?

By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
May 16, 2011

anyone climbed george's niche, immediately right of duck soup? karabin fold-out shows it as 5.8, going right up the overhanging wide crack into a burly off-width. wondering if this route merits a (+)? and that's even if you cheat down low and come in from the right... curious of other's thoughts.

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 6, 2011

@Jmo-Yes, I've done George's niche-It's a great burly offwidth. My personal opinion is that it is a 5.9, but that's just me. I think I had a six on that route and walked it a bit. Or maybe two and leap frogged them. Anyway, really fun & hard route. I remember the moves off the ground being tricky, too. But pro it with a 5 and you don't need to cheat, just try it a couple times/it'll come together.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Hey ya'll just wanted to let you know I sorted the routes, so that feature should help folks new to the area if this is your only source.

By adrea
Jun 12, 2012

Please be careful not to accidentally kick the loose rocks off when you are at the top of these climbs. There are a lot of people down below.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 2, 2013

ya sure it wasn't a king snake?

red and yellow kills a fellow? red and black safe for Jack?

By Colin Cox
May 2, 2013

Good question Darren. KC....can you confirm this distinction? I've seen lots of king snakes up this high but never a coral snake. I like snakes so I have a genuine curiosity about the certainty of this claim. KC, not knowing how familiar you are with Arizona snakes, I'm not sure if this claim is reliable. Did you make the distinction Darren mentioned when you saw the snake at the Overlook?

By PeterNSteinmetz
Jun 1, 2013

Can someone confirm what the restriction means here. The text above says past the area of Red Wagon. Just that mean to the left or right of Red Wagon when looking at the cliff?

thanks,
Peter

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 2, 2013

The restricted area is to the climber's left of Red Wagon. It's pretty obvious when you are down there as well cause the trail at the base essentially ends at the Trinities.

By BenZH
From: Flagstaff AZ
Aug 10, 2013

While attempting to climb orange out direct last night I was swarmed by hornets while placing a nut. Beware of that. I didn't manage to clip in and my whole set of nuts are hanging on the route (20-25 ft. up) while I took cover on a nearby jug.

By Erik S
Aug 19, 2013

I was at the Overlook yesterday and left a blue BD number 3 cam at the topout of Isaiah as we were getting downpoured on. If you find it It would be awesome if i could somehow get it back..

By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 3, 2013

it is definitely wasp season at the overlook. be very careful they are highly active right now and have nest on most routes or close to most routes at least the 3 we attempted. Obediah was climbable douglads right was not. 2 nest right at the 3/4 mark of the climb