BETA PHOTO: The Overlook and Broken Rock. Photo taken from th...
Description
A good cliff with a selection of trad and sport climbs. There are 12 routes so far. The crag is the upper tier of Broken Rock and offers great views in a quiet setting high above Boulder Creek.
L->R:
A. Transylvania, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Cracks to "bat flake" to steep face. Starts at pine tree by cave. B. ?Yosemite Sam?, 10+, 1p, 60', gear. Overhanging crack 15' L of C. C. Louisville Slugger, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Overhanging face 10' L of E. D. Golden Child, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Overhanging face to crack 5' L of E. E. Straight Out of Compton, 8+, 1p, 70', gear. Twin cracks & corner to flake/bulge. F. Denver Nugget, 7+, 1p, 60', gear. Pod 10' R of E. G. Minnesota Fats, 10, 1p, 70', gear. Thin crack to shallow offset corners. 35' downhill & L of J. H. Lobo 10, 1p, 70', gear. Face to hanging flakes. Just R of G. I. Greenfield, 11, 1p, 80', bolt & gear. Bulge to finger crack. Just R of H. J. Obscurity Risk, 12-, 1p, 55', gear. K. Philadelphia Flyer, 11, 1p, 60', 2 bolts & gear. Corners to hand crack through roof. 10' L of K. L. Jersey Devil 9+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Corners & roofs on R side of cliff. M. The Probe 11+, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Climb the roof 10' R of K.
Flake Right?, 7.
Getting There
Park as for Castle Rock. Cross the bridge and skirt the right (west) side of Broken Rock. At the top of Broken Rock traverse left and reach the far right side of the Overlook. The first route you get to is The Probe; the remaining routes are left and downhill from there.
Approach takes 10-15 minutes.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Overlook:
Start just right of Lobo. Place an RP, make a hard move and then clip a bolt. Technical moves get you to finger crack. Climb the crack to a large flake on the right. Move right into another corner and climb that to the top. You can also traverse at the top to the anchors for Philadelphia Flyer and lower from there. Great route with bouldering type moves at the start. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
T, the route with fixed nuts/pins is an existing climb rated 12a. I forget which guide I saw it in. It would be more friendly if the gear were "updated", but the FAs would need to do that.
I found this crag a disappointment as most climbs are over after ten or fifteen feet. Momentum Operator on Broken Rock, along the approach, seemed much more worthwhile.