2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
A good cliff with a selection of trad and sport climbs. There are 12 routes so far. The crag is the upper tier of Broken Rock and offers great views in a quiet setting high above Boulder Creek.
A. Transylvania, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Cracks to flake to steep face. Start at pine tree by cave. B. Yosemite Sam, 10+, 1p, 60', gear. Overhanging crack 15' L of C. C. Louisville Slugger, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Overhanging face 10' L of E. D. Golden Child, 11, 1p, 55', bolts & gear. Overhanging face to crack 5' L of E. E. Straight Out of Compton, 8+, 1p, 70', gear. Twin cracks & corner to flake/bulge. F. Denver Nugget, 7+, 1p, 70', gear. Pod 10' R of E. G. Minnesota Fats, 10, 1p, 50', gear. Thin crack to shallow offset corners. 35' downhill & L of J. H. Lobo 10, 1p, 50', gear. Face to hanging flakes. Just R of G. I. Greenfield, 11, 1p, 80', bolt & gear. Bulge to finger crack. Just R of H. J. Obscurity Risk, 12-, 1p, 55', gear. K. Philadelphia Flyer, 11, 1p, 60', 2 bolts & gear. Corners to hand crack through roof. 10' L of K. L. Jersey Devil 9+, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Corners & roofs on R side of cliff. M. The Probe 11+, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. Climb the roof 10' R of K.
Flake Right?, 7.
Park as for Castle Rock. Cross the bridge and skirt the right (west) side of Broken Rock. At the top of Broken Rock traverse left and reach the far right side of the Overlook. The first route you get to is The Probe; the remaining routes are left and downhill from there.
The crux is getting past the first two bolts on very overhanging rock.Bring gear (cams) for the upper crack and rap from the Louisville Slugger anchor. This is a great little route with power moves at the crux....[more]Browse More Classics in CO