Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Jake Bender, Dave Baker '71
Page Views: 1,282 total · 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Just right of Rotissma Bueno are a series of short cracks leading up the lip of the Rotissma corner. Tricky gear protection and sporty tied off chickenheads. Essentially 3 exits. The right (more or less direct) involves insecure move 4' above a modest tied off chickenhead. The center, a mantle up over a hollow chickenhead. Left, connecting into Charadras' steep exit (and mucho rope drag). Expect climbing above gear several feet on three occasions. NOT for a novice leader. I have a hard time giving this a star- and only for the direct (right) exit. The other two exits are "bomb" class.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Rotissima Bueno, 40' left of Black Quacker

Protection Suggest change

stoppers and TCU's. 9/16" shoulder slings AND the technique to secure them are essential.

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