The Other Way
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Just right of Rotissma Bueno are a series of short cracks leading up the lip of the Rotissma corner. Tricky gear protection and sporty tied off chickenheads. Essentially 3 exits. The right (more or less direct) involves insecure move 4' above a modest tied off chickenhead. The center, a mantle up over a hollow chickenhead. Left, connecting into Charadras' steep exit (and mucho rope drag). Expect climbing above gear several feet on three occasions. NOT for a novice leader. I have a hard time giving this a star- and only for the direct (right) exit. The other two exits are "bomb" class.
Just right of Rotissima Bueno, 40' left of Black Quacker
stoppers and TCU's. 9/16" shoulder slings AND the technique to secure them are essential.
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