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The Other One 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 3,531
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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Climber Karl Manteuffel on "The Other One&quo...

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Description 

The Other One fires up the prow of the Surprising Crag. It's the rightmost route on the West Face, just around the arete left of Choss Temple Pilots.

Jug haul to a good stance and high clip just before the crux. A clean, left-facing corner leading to a crisp edge and a pair of friction pads kicks up an interesting crux. Dust it with a high step. A slab to the anchors finishes the thing.

This has good rock and fun moves, and none of the holds appeared to be manufactured.

Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.


Photos of The Other One Slideshow Add Photo
The grizzled old man can still do a 5.11.  Channel...
The grizzled old man can still do a 5.11. Channel...
Peter Dillon at the crux overhang.
Peter Dillon at the crux overhang.
Peter Dillon on the pumpy lower section of the rou...
Peter Dillon on the pumpy lower section of the rou...
Mike Amato at the fourth clip.
Mike Amato at the fourth clip.
Racing the thunderstorm!
Racing the thunderstorm!
at the top
at the top
Approaching the crux.
Approaching the crux.
The Other One.  The bottom part of the route and t...
BETA PHOTO: The Other One. The bottom part of the route and t...
Chris flashing the horns - right after the redpoin...
Chris flashing the horns - right after the redpoin...
Great position - perfect day!
Great position - perfect day!
The crux of the climb.
The crux of the climb.

Comments on The Other One Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 31, 2010
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 14, 2001

But would it be categorically unfair to dismiss the area as offensive because it's egregiously over-bolted?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 14, 2001

Touche! While I will never have the steady mind control of our head-pointing masters, even I am committed to the idea that part of what we do is to play a mental game. My recent visit to the Sport Park also uncovered very little need for those superfluous synapses.
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 6, 2002

One of the only climbs that I know I'm going to miss about Sport Park. I don't really think the first couple of moves are .10d, but I think this is actually an 11a move over the top roof.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 19, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

After getting rained/hailed on at Castle Rock on Sunday then walking up to the choss at Mountain Rose crag with threatening rain again, I and my partner decided to go walk up to sport park at dusk and check the place out & see what all of the noise is about. We went with no guide, so we didn't know what routes we might try or what kind of chip & glue we might see. In the fading light (this route being done on a cloudy night at 8:45PM on May 18, the sun having set 15-20 min ago) I wound up for this route.When I was done, I called it 5.10c. I am guessing, but the point is that the route is seriously over-graded.On the bright side, the holds were all natural (or at least what I could see in that light- without the chalk on them, they would have been exceptionally hard to find). The crux was pulling over the round bulge onto slabby holds and I was relieved not to have found a deep finger pocket there- one which would have changed the climb totally.The line was reasonably bolted and due to it's position on the arete/end of the buttress was not seemingly crowded. If all of the lines at the Sport Park had been done in this fashion, nobody would bother bagging on the place for anything more than the blatant over-rating of the climbs.

5.10c in the dark. This is not an exaggeration- it's how I did the route.
By Erik L Ahrn_
Oct 27, 2003

Probably my favorite route in the Sport Park....
By Nathan Gray
Mar 24, 2007

I pulled the last roof with a little right hand crimp and reached up to a high sloping left hand. This felt harder than 10c...perhaps I botched the beta? I would agree there was NO other climbing on the route harder than 10a, but what the crap, is there an easier way to pull onto that slab?
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

You don't think that right hand crimp was chipped?
By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
Sep 20, 2009

Yeah, what IS that other route rated? Harder than I usually try, but it seemed so inviting after The Other One. I got the last clip and went nowhere. I tried going straight up and failed miserably. (My partner deviously stepped up on the arete and crawled onto the right face and finished.) Straight up "power crimping," wide feet on the overhanging wall and using the high sloper on the face got me nowhere. (Neither did the sketchy slapping along the arete.) It would be nice to know what my limit was.
By tsuji
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2009

My honest opinion was the route was 10 with a single 11a move pulling the last bulge. Fun stuff.
By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

That other route to the left is Shakedown Street, 12.c, according to this source. The Other One is a quality climb in great position. We got some incredible shots in profile with massive, towering cumulus above and the colors of the rock really popping. I'll post as soon as I get my camera back. The crux moves took me some figuring out. Some guy who was free-soloing 8s tried to give me the beta, but I tuned him out. For what it's worth, a guy I saw flash some 11d to the left, one of the roof routes, had a harder time on this climb. I would concur that this is the best route on Surprising Slab.
By keith story
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Enjoyable, to say the least. After some beta, I found the moves weren't too outrageous. The crux is REALLY tricky if you don't know where that crimp is. I tried using the sloper to the right and felt like pulling my hair out. Sturdy holds, regardless of possible chipping.