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"Black Man's Jump" 
(Other) Dihedral, The 
Aid Corner 
Arching Crack 
Buns Up 
Buttress Route 
Eliminator 
Great Expectations 
Nike Rout 
Tree Route 
Water Streak 

The (Other) Dihedral 

5.6

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
FA: Unknown
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Not as good as the other Dihedral in the Narrows, but still a fun and unique climb. The Dihedral climbs the tiered dihedral system to the right of Great Expectations. Climb up the initial dihedral with good protection and positive holds. At the top, step right and head back into the low angled chimney formed by the face and the second dihedral. There is a slightly flared crack that splits the roof of the chimney. You can place a couple of marginal cams in the crack, otherwise the protection is not great (but the climbing is easy). Once you reach the top of the chimney, climb to the anchors at the top of Great Expectations and rappel with two ropes.


    Protection 

    Standard rack (TCUs helpful). Shares anchors with Great Expectations.



    Comments on The (Other) Dihedral Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Stan Jones
    From: Benbrook, TX
    Nov 29, 2009
    rating: 5.6

    If you climb this on the original line, which is staying on the dihedral and not traversing right into the chimney, you'll have great pro the whole way. Big cams up high (#3 to #5).

    By Jack Jarko
    From: Oklahoma City,OK
    Jan 23, 2012
    rating: 5.6 PG13

    ran out the entire last section after stepping right. i may have been concerned if the climbing wasn't easy.