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Pointy Tower
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Original Route, The T 

The Original Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+ [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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John Glime wondering if the two pieces he has that...

Description 

Whoever did the first ascent of this climb has a good eye. It’s a compelling line.

Pitch one – Climb up to a bolt and then out a series of small roofs on what turns into a beautiful hand crack. Continue up a right facing dihedral and then climb up and right past a bolt to a belay on a ledge. (5.9, C1)

Pitch two – Step left from the anchor and climb the crack past a fixed pin until you are perched below a 5-6 inch offwidth that diagonals up and right. Climb the wideness to a belay on the shoulder below the summit cone. (C1+)

Pitch three – Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. Bring a long cord to sling the summit. (C1)

Rap the route.


Protection 

Two sets of cams to #6 Camalot.
(or be prepared to run it out on the second pitch)



Photos of The Original Route Slideshow Add Photo
Ian McAlexander jugging pitch two.
Ian McAlexander jugging pitch two.
Getting to the good crack on the first pitch.
Getting to the good crack on the first pitch.
John starting the second pitch in his top steps.
John starting the second pitch in his top steps.
In the dihedral on the first pitch. <br /> <br />The second pitch is visible above. (and seriously foreshortened)
In the dihedral on the first pitch.

The second pi...
Ian below the summit cone bolt ladder.
Ian below the summit cone bolt ladder.
Comments on The Original Route Add Comment
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 9, 2009

This is a really nice tower. We thought we were going to be the first to climb it... on the approach, that beautiful crack really stood out. We were psyched. We got to the base, took a drink and a piss, looked around a little more... and "doh" we saw a bolt. Buzz kill.

By Ben Kiessel
Aug 13, 2013

Bill, Matt and I climbed this the other day all free. Pitch one went at 5.11b. Pitch 2 is a really cool OW that has lots of features to avoid stacking, it went at 5.10b. The last pitch is a little soft but went free at 5.10a. Really fun free climbing! I would highly recommend!