The Original Route
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John Glime wondering if the two pieces he has that...
Whoever did the first ascent of this climb has a good eye. It’s a compelling line.
Pitch one – Climb up to a bolt and then out a series of small roofs on what turns into a beautiful hand crack. Continue up a right facing dihedral and then climb up and right past a bolt to a belay on a ledge. (5.9, C1)
Pitch two – Step left from the anchor and climb the crack past a fixed pin until you are perched below a 5-6 inch offwidth that diagonals up and right. Climb the wideness to a belay on the shoulder below the summit cone. (C1+)
Pitch three – Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. Bring a long cord to sling the summit. (C1)
Rap the route.
Two sets of cams to #6 Camalot.
(or be prepared to run it out on the second pitch)
Getting to the good crack on the first pitch.
In the dihedral on the first pitch.
The second pi...
John starting the second pitch in his top steps.
Ian McAlexander jugging pitch two.
Ian below the summit cone bolt ladder.
|Comments on The Original Route
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 9, 2009
This is a really nice tower. We thought we were going to be the first to climb it... on the approach, that beautiful crack really stood out. We were psyched. We got to the base, took a drink and a piss, looked around a little more... and "doh" we saw a bolt. Buzz kill.