The following cliffs will be closed to climbing beginning March 1, 2012: Angels Landing, Cable Mountain, The Great White Throne (beyond single- and double-pitched climbs), Isaac (in Court of the Patriarchs), The Sentinel, Mountain of the Sun, North Twin Brother, Tunnel Wall, The East Temple, Mount Spry, The Streaked Wall, Mount Kinesava, and the Middle Fork of Taylor Creek. All other cliffs will remain open to climbing.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Organasm is an excellent intro into Zion aid climbing. At just 4 pitches, it's half the commitment of nearby neighbors Touchstone Wall and Spaceshot. Furthermore, pitches 1 and 4 may be free climbed at a modest 5.8 and 5.7, respectively. P1 (5.8) Free climb 5.8 crack up pillar, past a single bolt, and continue through awkward wide section to gain a decent stance at a sling belay.P2 (C1) Aid through a stellar roof through a splitter crack with bomber C1...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
It would be nice if you can use 3 Black Diamiond .75 and 3 2 inch cams or equivalent as these sizes come in very handy for the first pitch. A few raps off the summit would be advised rather then the bushwacking dirty downclimb.
it has been a year (+ or -) since I was on this route, but I remember it to be one of my two most favorite routes in Zion. The second pitch is where it is at. Do the whole thing free for complete emancipation. Take normal to light rack as it is a short pitch, don't leave the belay w/o a . 75 BD to protect the crux and to keep the rope out of the crack which would push all of your cams protecting the horizontal part out of reach for the follower. A text book .75 placement can be found just right of the angle change coming out of the roof (separate crack system). Good luck, don't be intimadated by its looks, protects super well and climbs even better.
The first two pitches can be linked with prudent use of long runners and goes free at around 5.11+. The roof is pretty much perfect jams until you pull the lip.
I think guidebooks call the crux pitch mid-5.12, but it's been so long since I did it, that I have no idea what it should be rated. I remember it being pretty face-climby and super cool.
Does anybody have any information on the short 35', single bolt anchor, hands to tips crack that lies 40' to the right(west) of Organasm? It's a sweet little climb if you're waiting out a slow party on Organasm.
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