This is the farthest left route on the cliff. Hike up a dead end gully-chasm to reach the route. It has very powerful climbing up the gently overhanging wall with surprisingly bad grips. The holds do get better after the third bolt and on the dog does not seem that hard (compared to the climbing below), but you do carry the pump to the anchors. A hold broke in the middle of the crux solidifying the grade, but the route has since been redpointed.... Oh and don't worry you won't hit the wall behind you if you fall.
This has great movement but is a little crumbly, so only two stars. A short route, so boulderers should fare well.
5-6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Dan making the crux clip.
Dan doing the final moves before the chains.
Ted on the crux.
|By Dan Levison|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2004
Great route; thanks Peter!
|By Matt Battaglia|
Aug 19, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work.