Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Frisky Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Borg, The S 
Orb, The S 
Rumors of Glory S 
Sin Gaz S 
Sinopia S 
Van Damage S 

The Orb 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 2,208
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Sep 3, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dan starting the crux moves.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the farthest left route on the cliff. Hike up a dead end gully-chasm to reach the route. It has very powerful climbing up the gently overhanging wall with surprisingly bad grips. The holds do get better after the third bolt and on the dog does not seem that hard (compared to the climbing below), but you do carry the pump to the anchors. A hold broke in the middle of the crux solidifying the grade, but the route has since been redpointed.... Oh and don't worry you won't hit the wall behind you if you fall.

This has great movement but is a little crumbly, so only two stars. A short route, so boulderers should fare well.


Protection 

5-6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of The Orb Slideshow Add Photo
Dan making the crux clip.
Dan making the crux clip.
Dan doing the final moves before the chains.
Dan doing the final moves before the chains.
Ted on the crux.
Ted on the crux.
Comments on The Orb Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2004

Great route; thanks Peter!

By Matt Battaglia
Aug 19, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work.