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Capen Park
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The Open Book 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
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Season: Any
Page Views: 1,348
Submitted By: Bryan Hall on Oct 22, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Michael McKay stands below Open Book (5.10) at Cap...

Description 

Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!


Location 

Head past the low angle section of the wall and it is the first route to the right.


Protection 

Slings and gear up to 2" There is a solitary bolt on top of the cliff that is used for top roping.



Photos of The Open Book Slideshow Add Photo
Michael McKay climbs through the delightful, steep opening moves of the Open Book, at Capen Park
Michael McKay climbs through the delightful, steep...
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By Elijah Flenner
Oct 23, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

A few comments on the description. There are several bolts on the top that can be used for a top rope, and you should not use just one. The route is about 35 feet.

The route takes finger and hand sized gear at the roof. I have also seen someone place, and fall on, a large cam right under the roof. After the roof, the gear is sparse (some may say that it does not exist).

The upper crux is probably the best crux sequence at Capen Park.

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I always liked this route because the crux came just at the very top. During my short time in Columbia it seemed like this route would get TRed quite often but rarely led. Karp would show up from time to time and lead the thing, but I never got up the nerve.

By Joe Lo
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Awesome route, it was very exciting to lead no doubt about it!! The crux is right after the roof, definitely one of the best movements in the park.

Also was able to put a small cam in a pocket about four feet above roof

Climbing is 5.6-5.7 until the roof, then pulling roof and finishing is definitely in the 5.10 range. No 5.9 no doubt about it

By Elijah Flenner
Oct 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Nice lead Joe. I hear the top is MUCH more polished than it was 20 years ago; when I lead it. I am curious what cam you used in the pocket above the roof. Might be good information for future ascents, and I cannot possibly imagine what would fit well.

Cheers,
Elijah

By Joe Lo
Nov 7, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Thanks brother. It was a c4 .75. It felt really solid, and gave me confidence.

And i have no doubt it is MUCH more polished than 20 years ago,
The Mizzou Climbing Club has been shredding those cliffs every Wednesday for a few years now. Many laps ran and whips taken/thrown. Capen Rocks.

One Love and stay radd.

Placing .75 on the Book.
Placing .75 on the Book.

By cgraves
From: Denver CO
Mar 2, 2014

Nice photo of Joe heading into the crux.
Jogged my memories of yesteryear of that move. Placing gear was tough.
With the polish, the route must be significantly harder than in 1977.
Cannot recall the gear we used. What ever it was must have been sketch.