The Open Book
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 175'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Guy Jacobson, Gil Harder, 1978. FFA: Bob Rotert, Randy Mann and Ted Anderson|
|Season: ||Spring - Fall|
|Page Views: ||4,749|
|Submitted By: ||Jeff Mekolites on Feb 27, 2007|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Some of the gear at the start/crux of the route. Y...
This climb offers some of the best jams and stems in the gorge. When you see it you will know why and you will want to climb it.
From the rock ramp climb your way up to a roof and bulge. Continue up the incredible corner to a tree covered ledge, building a belay mid way through the corner.
The Open Book is located in the Ampitheater. Approach via the main descent gully, route will be on your right side as you are descending. If you reach the prow...go back. Look for a large wet chimney and water streaks, route is just to the right. Rack up and stash packs before hiking into the gully.
Standard NC rack. There are a couple of pins/bolts through the crux roof moves but that is about it.
|Comments on The Open Book
|By Blake Allen Green|
Oct 20, 2010
This route is fantastic. It has a very bouldery crux pulling the roof, then it calms down and offers amazing moves in a fantastic location. #2 and #3 c4s are pretty useful in the dihedral part of the climb. The entire climb from the roof to the top can be done in 1 pitch if you build a belay right below the crux. There are some fixed pins and a fixed bolt, but they are all pretty old and sketchy looking.
|By Harrison Dreves|
From: Nashville, TN
Oct 28, 2010
Climbed it with Blake Green Fall 2010. We left a fixed BD nut right at the crux; it protects the crux moves well.
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 5, 2011
The tat on the bolts has been cut off. no idea why it was there to begin with. Pin's can be backed up with small cams. Fixed nut is still in place, but kinda gets in the way i thought. thin hands to #4 for the rest of it.
|By Bob Rotert|
Aug 19, 2013
For History on this FFA was 1978 or maybe 79, the FA by Guy was much earlier. Love seeing the pictures!!