The Open Book 

If you study the photo, you shouldn't have any major route finding problems!

Moved Lee Jensen's description from a comment to the route description.

Maybe it was the cold, lightning, thunder and hail that made this route not so fun. I need to try it again on a day with better weather.
This is a solid 5.7 climb all the way to the last pitch. The off-width is the hardest section in my opinion. In fact that sharp granite is like a cheese grater on the arms and legs when you get sucked into it. Stay out where there are good holds!
You will find awesome foot jams in the "Bear Hug" section. Not too difficult at all. I found this route protected well, but bring lots of big pro. We ran out of large cams and nuts on almost every pitch, therefore we had to do it in 5 pitches instead of 4. Also made protecting the belay interesting. The plus? It gets you to the top of Lone Peak where the view is amazing!

Anyone have a bit more detailed rack info? Thanks!

We had a single rack and it was plenty (and we did it in three pitches).

As I recall, it was a set of BD stoppers (#4 to #13), a set of BD C4's (#.3 to #3, with an extra #2), BD C3's #0 to #2, a dozen or so trad draws plus two or three double length slings.

Anyone been up to the cirque recently? I'm wondering how water/snow conditions are. Considering an attempt in early August.

I was just up there on Saturday July 18th! there is still a little snow inside the cirque. Water won't be a problem. you can melt snow with a stove. I used the Alpine approach. Lot of water along the way. No snow on the trail in.

The beta on the web page says go right around the roof on the 4th pitch, but the description on the photo says to go left. Which is it?

Lynn, Go right. It's pretty obvious when you're there.

Fun route but not the exposure you expect or want when in the cirque...at least in my opinion.

I'm going to speak blasphemy here but I enjoyed this route as much as the Lowe route. I thought the chimney pitch and the fluted cracks pitches were really fun, and it tops out right onto the summit. We did it in 3 pitches, linking 1-2. We saw lots of folks belaying on slung horns in horrible stances which made no sense to us. Link 1-2 to top of chimney and belay in a wide groove. Pitch 3 is a full 200' to a bomber ledge below a roof with medium gear for belay. Pitch 4 goes up into the obvious chimney then over the roof with a pin and belay 10 feet below the summit, before crawling through a hole onto the top. Superb for the grade.

Super sweet climb. Had some interesting weather (rain, wind). Used a lot of gear. Had one set of nuts, double set of Camalots up to #3, one #4 and wished for bigger gear (but who wants to haul it up there) along with one set of C3's with doubles in #1 and #2. Shoulder-length slings extremely useful. We linked one and two but I made the mistake of missing the belay stance at the end of P2 which looking back seemed really vague so ended up rigging a hanging belay 30 feet up pitch #3.

Awkward, interesting climbing with hand and foot jams, arm bars, stemming, face climbing and, yes, bear hugging. There are some slippery, grainy foot holds you have to watch out for; one of which caught me completely off-guard (thanks C4 #2).

To start P1 we scrambled up to the diorite block and belayed from there.

(BTW - left a #2 C3 and #2 C4 up there somehow if someone can grab it for me I will bring cookies)

Climbed Open Book on Pie and Beer Day last week. Some how lost a number 2 TCU and Wild Country sling draw. If you find it and would be kind enough to return it I would gladly make it worth your time i.e. Beer, Money, a Thank You Card or Cookies.

763-458-4825

Wasatch MTN Man, I have your cams, send me a message or call and I will return them to you.