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 ADVANCED
North Face of Pike's Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
66 Years of Fun 
Blind Assumption T 
Blind Luck T 
Ole 6, The T 
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) 
Total Abandon T 
Y Couloir 

The Ole 6 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c WI3 M6+

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c WI3 M6+ [details]
FA: Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, as a mixed line
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall- Spring
Page Views: 1,491
Submitted By: erik wellborn on Jan 2, 2013

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At the end of the roof.

Description 

"We'll work up a number six on them." The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed.

P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3.

P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5.

P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in a alcove below the roof. 100 feet, M5/6.

P4) Traverse the roof on excellent gear, jams, and hooks with mega air below your feet. Wild! Either belay at the end of the traverse on a nice ledge or continue to the top. M6/7 or 5.11.

The pitches can easily be linked if desired. We just kept running out of gear.


Location 

The route is located left of the classic "Total Abandon" on the large buttress. Look for the obvious corner system with the 30 foot roof at the top.

For descent, you can either rap Blind Assumption or scramble up the buttress then walk off right to the highway.


Protection 

Doubles to #4. A #5 is useful for the third pitch. Depending on conditions, maybe bring 1 or 2 stubbies.



Photos of The Ole 6 Slideshow Add Photo
Buster OS the crux.
Buster OS the crux.
1st pitch.
1st pitch.
Starting the 2nd pitch.
Starting the 2nd pitch.
Ze roof.
Ze roof.
The route. Hard to miss!!
The route. Hard to miss!!
Buster following P3.
Buster following P3.
2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
Comments on The Ole 6 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Jan 2, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3+ M6+

Not to be missed! If this was in the park, it would be an instant classic!

By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Jan 2, 2013

My new fav line on the Peak, but maybe I'm a little biased. I thought the crux was the off-width section at the start of our 3rd pitch.

By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Jan 2, 2013

I asked Mark Hesse about this line. Said he never heard of anyone climbing it.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 5, 2013

Nice work, duder!