The Ole 6 5.11 WI3 M6+
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 WI3+ M6+ [details] |
| FA: | Erik Wellborn and Phil Wortmann, as a mixed line |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Fall- Spring |
| Submitted By: | erik wellborn on Jan 2, 2013 |
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The route. Hard to miss!!
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Description The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed. P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3. P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5. P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in a alcove below the roof. 100 feet, M5/6. P4) Traverse the roof on excellent gear, jams, and hooks with mega air below your feet. Wild! Either belay at the end of the traverse on a nice ledge or continue to the top. M6/7 or 5.11. The pitches can easily be linked if desired. We just kept running out of gear.
Location The route is located left of the classic "Total Abandon" on the large buttress. Look for the obvious corner system with the 30 foot roof at the top. For descent, you can either rap Blind Assumption or scramble up the buttress then walk off right to the highway.
Protection Doubles to #4. A #5 is useful for the third pitch. Depending on conditions, maybe bring 1 or 2 stubbies.
1st pitch.
| Starting the 2nd pitch.
| 2nd pitch.
| Ze roof.
| At the end of the roof.
| Buster following P3.
| Buster OS the crux.
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By Noah8000 From: Arvada, CO Jan 2, 2013 rating: 5.11 WI3+ M6+
| Not to be missed! If this was in the park, it would be an instant classic! |
By phil wortmann From: Colorado Springs, Co. Jan 2, 2013
| My new fav line on the Peak, but maybe I'm a little biased. I thought the crux was the off-width section at the start of our 3rd pitch. P.S. this line may have been climbed as a rock route in summer by one of the various Springs old school hard men, but we found no evidence of previous passage. |
By erik wellborn From: manitou springs Jan 2, 2013
| I asked Mark Hesse about this line. Said he never heard of anyone climbing it. |
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Jan 5, 2013
| Nice work, duder! |
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